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S,10 ^V 



-^ -►FROM» ^- 

THE "OK" POULTRY JOURNAL 

--w,«-PRINTERY-VAv— 

MOUNDS. OKLA. 



6,000 LAYING HENS 

ON 1 ACRE 
"CRANE'S SYSTEM" 



By W?i. CRANE- 



The Purchasers of this Book are Given the Kiyht to Make. Use or Hire Made, any and all 
Houses and Equipments Desrcribed Herein, or Used in My System; Except Such Ar- 
ticles that are Patented and Manufactured by Others; such as the X-Ray Incu- 
bators andBrooders. the Eng Cases of the Star Ewti' Carrier & Tray Mfg. 
Co.. Norwich. Automatic!! Feeders, and Moe's Drinking Foun- 
tains. No Person Not Owning a Book have any Right to 
Make. Use or Hire Made any of the Housesor Equip- 
ments nor use this System, in so far as the 
Houses and Eciuipment, that is of 
My Own Invention, and Cov- 
ered by this Copyright 
is Concerned. 



Price $1.00 



First Edition 
Three Thousand 



PUBLISHED, 191:2 

By W. O. CRANE, TOLSA, OIILA. 



s^^ 



4-1 



6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 



Coprighted 1912 

by 

W. O. CRANE 

Tulsa. Okla. 



iC!.A328553 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 

Index to Subjects 



Page. 

Introduction of Crane's System 6 

Specifications and Directions fo;- building Large Laying 

House, Portable 12 

Caring for Large Laying House. 28 

Caring for and Feeding Laying- Stock 32 

Specifications and Directions fer Buildnrg my Portable, 
Colony, Chick Raising, or Small Mating Breeding- 
House 34 

Caring for Colony, Chick Raising, or Small Mating 

House 42 

Caiing for, and Feeding Ba])y Chicks. 44 

Oat Sprouting for Green Feed 47 

Sprouting Oats in the Open G/ ound in Summer 54 

Incubators and Biooders 54 

Crane's Fireless Brooder. .. 60 

Crane's Automatic Dry ^Lish Hopper. 62 

Crane's Automatic Water Four.tain 64 

Feeding Trough for Large Laying House. 65 

Feeding Trough for Colony Chick Raising or small 

]\Iating Breeding House. . . 66 

Oil Cups for Mite Proof Roosts 66 

Storing Eggs for Hatching, or Market 66 

Portable Roost and Droppuig Board 68 

Portal)le Mite Proof Roost 68 

Line Breeding 70 

Poultry Diseases 74 

Preparing Birds for the Show Room 81 

Story of the Discovery, antl Histoiy of the Success 

of Crane's System 83 



Index to Illustrations 



Fig. 2, My First Laying House 7 

Fig. 3, View of Crane's Automatic Poultry Plant One 

Year from its Start 9 

Fig. 4, View of Crane's Automatic Poultry Plant two 

Years from its Start • • . . . 11 

Fig. 5, South and East View of Large Laying House. . . 13 

Fig. 6, North and West View of Large Laying House. . . 15 
Fig. 7, South and East View of Large Laying House 

Closed 17 



4 6000 LAYING HENS (JN 1 ACRE 

Fig. 8, Drawing of Frame — Work of Large Laying House. . . 19 
Fig. 9, Drawing of Jnterior of Large Laying House. . . 21 

Fig. 10, Drawing Representing One Acre set with 294 

Large Laying Houses. . . 23 

Fig. 11, Drawing Of Blind Nest to be used in eithei- 

House 25 

Fig. 12, View of our Oat-Sprouting Department 27 

Fig. 13, Drawing of one Oat Rack without the Draws 29 

Fig. 14, Drawing of one Oat Rack with Draws. . . . . . . 31 

Fig. 15, Drawing of Crane's Automatic Dry Feed Hopper. .. 33 
Fig. 16, Drawing of Crane's Automatic Water Fountain, 

Feeding Trough for Large Laying House, Feeding 

Trough for Colony Chick Raising House and Oil Cu])s 

for the Mite Proof Roosts 35 

Fig. 17, South and East View of Colony, Chick Raising 

House 37 

Fig. 18, North and West View of Colony Chick Raising 

House 39 

Fig. 19, View showing Chick Raising House partially 

unhooked. 41 

Fig. 20, Drawing of Portable Roost and Dropping Board. . . 43 
Fig. 21, Drawing of Mite Proof Roosts foi- Large Laying 

House ■IS 

Fig. 22, Drawing representing One Acie of ground 

plated for 630 Chick Raising Houses 47 

Fig. 23, Crane's Fireless Brooder 49 

Fig. 24, View looking onto Chick Raising House with 

Brooder and Chicks 51 

Fig. 25, X-Ray Incubator. . . 53 

Fig. 26, Our Storing Eggs for Hatching Department 55 

Fig. 27, Drawing of C*hart for Line Breeding 57 

Fig. 28, Drawing Showing Sixteen ways of Toe Marking 

Baby Chicks 59 

Figs. 29 and 30, Views of some of the Large Laying 

Houses in use 61 

Figs. 31 and 32, Views of some of the Chick Raising 

Houses in use 63 

Fig. 33, Photo of our Buff Orpington Hen 65 

Fig. 34 Photo of our Famous Black Orpington Cock. . . 67 
Fig. 35, Photo of our Famous Black Orpingiton Cock. . . 69 

Fig. 36, Photo of our Famous Black Orpington Cockeiel. .. 71 
Figs. 37 and 38, Views taken of Portions of our Plant 

in winter 73 

Fig. 40, Crane's Fireless Brooder with its Fill of Babies. .. 75 



CKAXE'S SY.STEM 




w. <». cra:se 

Miinajierof Crane's Auloma tic Pouliry Plant. Tulsii. Okla. 

Originator of ■Crime's System" and Publisher 

of this Book. 

(Life Member A. P. A.) 



fiOOO LAYING HENB ON 1 ACRE 



INTRODUCTION 



In offering this book to the public, I am offering no excuses. 
The main reason why 1 am publishing it, is because so many peo- 
ple have wished the plans and specifications of my Houses and 
Equipment that I have invented and used, that have proven so 
successful in our business ,that have attracted the attention of 
the Poultry World far and near. It is not infreciuent that we get 
inquiries by mail from England and other Foreign Countries. 

In getting up the plans and specifications I thought it best 
to embody with it, what I have learned by actual experience in 
keeping birds in confinement, as our System calls for ; so any 
new beginner with poultry either with my System or otherwise 
can start from the beginning and be successful ;but with this Sys- 
tem it means that every household can have their pen of chick- 
ens that have a space of ground lOxlS sq. feet; they can -install 
one of our Laying Houses without any yard, or further run-ways 
to buy or build, and the chickens will l>other no one, and if prop- 
erly cared for according to my instn;ctions herein will give plen- 
ty of fresh eggs for the M^liole family. If one will start with one 
of the many thorobred varieties will bring in many a Dollar be- 
sides, to buy the groceries etc., in the spiing of the year by sel- 
ling eggs for hatching. 

The name of my System it,*- elf is so seemingly exiaggerating 
is often branded as a falsehood li\ ])( ople not knowing anything 
about it, as they believe it cannot l.e done, find have to be shown; 
but in this Book I will make claw that 60U() Laying Hens can 
be successfully kept on one Acre oi ground; as we have demon- 
strated to thousands of peop^v' the h;f-t thuc yeais that it can 
be done, by using a fractional part of an acre, housing the requi- 
red number of hens that will figure out 617-i to the acre. My suc- 
cess has been so marvelous that most people are slow to compre- 
hend I tell the thuth at all times ; but I have neighbors about us 
that saw the first pen of chickens come onto the place, and have 
watched us gl-ow all the way. They knew my financial condition 
when I commenced and they know it yet. and will readily verify 
any statement 1 make in this respect in this Book. 

I wish to say this is my first attempt at writing a book, and 
I am no author and am not schooled in this cla^s of work, so 
all will bear with me in my attempt and manner of writing this 



CRANE'S BY8TEM 





'"^-j^^ 



Fig. 2. 



Fi"- •' This Half-tone is my first Layin- House, by which 1 discovered -Crane's Sys- 
stem/' was built from two Piano Boxes, backed together, and raised two and one-half feet 
above the ground. «ivin{i a room under the floor, and by putting a portable floor half way be 
tween the flloor and the roof for the chickens to roost over, gave me a three floor house. 

This Photo was taken, showing the original bens two and one-half years after they were 
put into it. These hens were never allowed out of the house all this time. The egg record for 
the twelve hens, for the first seven and one-haif months, was 156^ eggs, and was nearly as 
good up to the lime they were sold. 



8 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

my first issue. 1 shall endeavor by my experiences if thc^ will 
clear as possible, so all can learn to make every thing as plain and 
but read. 

1 shall not attempt to teach those who know more tlian I 
do, nor those who will not care to read and follow my metliods 
closely ; but hope every one who pays the price of One Dollar for 
this Book will find many times its value out of it and I am quite 
sure you will, if you will apply y ourselves to my methods. 

I am aware of the fact that there are other methods and so- 
called Systems of keeping poultry confined ; some were used be- 
fore I discovered mine, while otl:cis have been gotten out since; 
mine is often taken as one of these systems at first sight as 
its a confinement System. I cl aim this, I can house over twice 
as many biids on a given space of land, and this twice as many, 
can be cared for with half the labor, that the half as many can; 
thus doubling ones profit twice on a given space of land over 
aoiy other System now known; axid our birds will do as well or 
better. Therefore I claim my System is twofold better than any 
system now in use or is sold on the market in book form, when 
it comes down to condensing the number of birds on a given 
»pace, saving of labor, getting results in eggs, and having ones 
birds always healthy, free from lice atnd mites. 

I wish to state that all cuts in this book are made from actual 
photographs and drawings from the houses and equipment at our 
Poultry Plant, to show them up as lifelike as possible, so every- 
one may see them at the best possible advantage. 

Crane's System is fully illustrated and described in this 
book ; with Figs. 10 and 22, one can conceive of the idea of an 
acre plated to one each of my large laying, and chick raising 
houses shoAving that 6,000 laying hens can ])e housed on one acre, 
as we have demonstrated for three years. Also about 15,000 
chickens can be matured to five month old anirually on one acre. 

By having these houses all fitted with Fairl)a.nks and Morse 
Auto Pneumatic Fresh Water Supply Systems, Mfg. by Fair- 
banks and Morse of St. Louis, Mo., giving fresh ruiuiing water 
all the time, and the Norwich Automatic Feeder and my Auto- 
matic Dry INIash Hopper, so all grain feeding is reduced from two 
and three times daily to once to twice weekly, will reduce the 
labor over one-half, therefore bringing the cost of caring for 
stock in my system to the very lowest minimum. Hatching and 
brooding the chickens with the X-Raj'^ Incubators and Brooders 
(of course others can be used) brings the labor of raisirrg chick- 
ens to a pleasure, and the cost to a low miirimum. I have always 
fed and watered by hand irntil about three months ago, arrd this 
is one of the reasons this book was rrot ]m])lished a year ago, 
as I wanted to try out a few in ore of these lal)or saving ideas. 



CI-^A.nE'S SYSTEM! 




Fig. 3. 

Pig'. 3. This Photo was iiiken ;\bout one year fi-om the time we starieci. Pehruary 1st- 
191(1. showing' the original Piano Box House, and two houses of my second edition, having been 
made portable 5x6 feet with flat lop. but made three stories high, maintaining the same prin- 
cipals of the Piano Box House. Also t went y of my 3x6 feet and 2 feet high portable, colony 
chicU raising and .special small mating houses. 



10 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRl; 

Cranes' System has its own Fireless Brooder that is illustrat- 
ed in Figures 23, 24 and 40 that has proven very successful, and 
my oat sprouting-, by cases, and out in the open ground that is 
entirely original; that 1 believe is the best methods knovai to- 
day. Also my methods of feeding, and caring for young chicka 
and laying stock for my System Houses in this confineitunt plan 
is invaluable; also my secret remedies ai:d formulas I'cr disease 
etc. prepaiing birds for the Shew Room, and Stoiing eggs for 
Hatching, and Preserving Eggs fre all verj^ valuable, and are 
covered by this copyright. 

There are many people who believe my System, Hire all oth- 
er Systems of this class, is cruel and not natural for the chick- 
ens; but they do not stop to think by closing their cow, horse or 
pig in the stable, or pen, and tieing it likely to a small stall it 
is cruel or unnatural to these animals. No it is just as sane to 
believe o<ne can confine a chicken and have it to do well and be 
happy in a nice little three story Flat, as to confine your cow, 
horse, or pig in a stall or pen, where they can have little or no 
exercise. If you wish to fatten cne of the above animals what do 
yon do? You confine closely in a stall where they get no exerci- 
se; so they do with force fatting chickens; but in all cases and 
for all purposes in view you confine your cow, horse or i)ig so 
yon can control their diet to prodiue lie desired end. So I do 
with my chickens, I confine them then T can feed such foods they 
require for the purpo.'e I wish them to fill, whether its for fat, 
show biids, cr for layiaig lots of eggs, feitJle aggs, ti I'o^r growth 
in my young growing chickens. I have them under my c ^nt.'ol 
and I can by proper feeding make tlveni comply to my wish. I 
give them plenty to eat; but I give the diet to produce the result 
1 want and one cani7>ot do it with birds on range, any more than 
you can stall feed a steer and let Idm have large at the siiiic 
time \^•ith ary good result. The (/nly reason that there are peo- 
ple tiiat tMrik that eenrin nioit systems are cruel and unnatural 
is because that very few of them have ever tiied it, and give their 
opinion without practical expci ience. 

W. 0. Ciane. 




CRANE'S SYSTEM 



11 




Fig. 4. 

Fig, 4. This Photo was taken just two years from the time we ^'^'-J^^' J;;;;7;;^'^^;^^: 
191,; at which time the Associate Editor of the Union Poultry J-"--\-'"-^.;'^^'J^^^;^'!^"^,,;te 
m'Ued its vahie at $3,500.00. All havini? heen produced from a start of t«eUe hens and one 
^(^^.kerel in the two years: You will notice the old Piano Box House next to the Residence m 
Z^:^::. Z^^eL of my Third Edition New I.ayi.. Houses -^^];;ll^;\;;^^^:: 
the following Figures: 5, 6. 7. H and 9; seven of them havm^ l>een hlled ^n Uh White Le.horns, 
Iwem^one head to the house. We also had thirty of the chick laism. colony houses at thxs- 
time. 



20 Pieces 1x4x12 


ft. 


4^Pieces 1x4x12 


ft. 


2— Pieces 2x4x14 


ft. 


' 6 Pieces 2x4x12 


ft. 


2 1-2— Pieces 1x12x12 


2— Pieces 1x8x12 


ft. 


15— Pieces 1x4x12 


ft. 


make 30 Pieces 1x2x12 ft. 




2— Pieces 1x4x12 


ft. 



12 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

Specifications and Directions for Building Large 
Laying House--Portable 

Lumher Bill, Jind jMaterial List, for my New Laying House 
as shown in Figs. 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9. 

13 — Pieces 1x4x14 ft. common flooring. 

common flooring. 

common Boards. 

common Dimension Lumber. 

common Dimension Lumber. 

common Dimension Lumber. 

common Dimension Lumber. 

common Lumber. Ripped once to 

common Lumber. Ripped three 
times to mal e 8 Pieces 1x1x12 ft. 

2 — Sheets of cheapest plain Galvanized Iron 30x96 in. 

4 — Rocst Lon Red Hangers. 

4 — Oil Clips for Roost Hangers. 

1^ — 1-3 Rolls 3ply Roofing 36 in. wide, if obtainable. 
Amazon Brand, comes 3 ft. wide, can be obtained by local deal- 
ers of Buchanan Fester Co. Philadelphia, Pa. 

2 — lbs. Roofing Caps, extra. 

3 — lbs. Roofing Nails extra. 

2 — pkgs. Double pointed Tacks. 

1 — pkg. Common Carpet Tacks. 

1 — doz Screw Hooks 2 1-2 inches long. 

2 — doz. Screw Eyes 1 1-2 inches long. 

1 — doz. Screw Eyes 1 1-2 inches long with eyes to fit the 
IRoost Hangers. 

4 — doz. 2 inch Screws. 

1 — doz. Screen Door Hocks and Eyes 2 1-2 inches long. 

2- -lbs. 6d. Finish Nails. 

2 — lbs. 8d. Common Nails. 

5 — lbs. 6d. Common Nails. 

3 — Bolts 3-8 in. one 3 in. and two 4 in. 

5 — ^pr. Strap Hinges 5 in. 

8 1-3 — yds. 3ft wide 1 inch mei-h Poultry wire Netting, 

2 — pkgs. Steel corrugated Box Fastners 1-2 inch. 

3 — yds. Muslin Unbleached 8 cent cpiality. 

5 — yds. No. 5 galvanized wire to make long hooks of. 

1— lb. Lath Nails. 

1 — bunch Lath. 

4 — ft. Sash cord. 

3 — ^yc-.'-. 10 oz. White Ducking 1yd. wide. 



(JRAXK'S SYSTKM 



13: 




Ri^. 5. 



Pig. 5. This Photo shows the South and East Sides of my Third and hist Edition in my 
LayinK house, with the South Doors open for the day. I have been u,sing- this house two years 
now and can see no way to improve upon it for this climate. It is made 6x6 feet square and T 
feet hi)jrh at the eave. and 7 feet. 8 inches at the ti'ahle. 



14 0000 LAYING HENS ON I ACRE 

The above Material Bill costs here from $15.€0 to $16.00, ac- 
cordicg to how many houses one buyis for at a time; but material 
here is veiy high and can be bought much cheaper in many oth- 
er places. Carpenters want about $8.00 for building ore here, as 
they figure two days work, at $4.00. 

I do not build and sell these houses. In fact I have nothing 
used in Crane's System for stale. I simply sell this Book which 
gives the purchaser the right to build and use eveiy thing used 
in Crane's System except only the things that are patented by 
others. 

I will, however, gladly a-sLst anyone in procuring any thing 
used in my System, even to getting Houses built for any one at 
the lowest p'ossible cost. 

Ccmrii cueing with Fig. 8 as }(.\r guide, ycu vdU fi;st build 
the sub-ba^e and frame. Outside dimensions of this above the 
sub-base is 6x6 ft. square seven ft. high at the coiners, and 7ft. 
8 inches at the gable. Take a 2x4x12 ft. and cut exact 6 ft. each 
for two pieces, for the sub-base F. Now cut four pieces 1x4x8 in. 
and nail v ithin 7-8 in. of the ends on F, having lower end even 
with bottom of F pieces, to act as corner posts and cleats for 
sub-base. Cut from 1x4x12. ft. two pieces for G. 6 ft. less the 
thickness cf 11 e two pieces F. so when nailed in to the corner 
cleats or posts on the pieces F. first cut, so your sub-base will 
be exactly six feet square. The corner pcs:ts or cleats answers 
for cleats to nail the side pieces G. to, and as posts to extend 
above the sub-base inside the Tip;v;- frame so the House proper 
cannot move around or slide out of place by heavy winds. Now 
squaie the sub-base and stay with stay lath across the cornfr. Set 
the sub-base where you wish the house to stand and level y*; : al- 
lowing the sub-base to rest on the highest point of ground and 
level the other corners up to that. Spade the ground up deep 
inside this sul)-base pulveiize fine, and fill this sub-base level 
full of fine clean dirt for the chickens dust bath. Grade the 
ground around the house so it will be even with the top of sub- 
base and slope away from the house, so all rain and surface water 
will run from the house to keep the ground floor dry. To 
make the end frames which is made in solid frame ; take two 
2x4x14 ft. and cut exact 7 fe t long to make the four corner 
posts A. take one 1x4x12 ft. cnt exact 6 ft. for the base B. for 
both end frames. Take one lxT2xl2 ft. and cut 6 ft. for gable 
beards D. for both end frames. Frame your corner posts to half 
lap the bottom corners for the base pieces B. and the top ends 
cut out for the sinking the gable boaid just even into the cor- 
ner post; the gable board having first been sized by finding its 
center on one edige and ripped down from the center to four in- 
ches wide at the ends ; thus nmking the gable boards 4 inches 
wide at the ends and 12 inches wide at the centers having this 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



15 




Fig. 6. 



Pitr. 6" This is another Photo of my New Laying' House, showing the North and West 
view, with the North Doors open so the chickens tiet all the air there is on warm days and no 
sun. Here we have the nest door open to show how busy the hens are laying, one waiting for 
another. 



16 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

slope cii the upper edge for to fit to the rcof; giving 8 inches 
fall on both sides of roof from the ridge in the center to the eve. 
Nail ycur frames together at the corners seeing that you drive 
no nails nearer than 1 1-4 inch fr^jin the outside edge of frame. 
Take two 2x4x12 It. and cut six feet 1g£s the width of the two 
corner pests A. in each end frame for the four cix)ss girths C. Toe- 
nail thenQ to the coiner pests A. to the lower one is just 2 ft. 6 
inches from the bottom of the base of frame to the top side of 
this giitb, and the upper one wants to ]'e 2ft. 6 inches from top 
of lower girth to top of this girth, or jrst 2 ft. fionr top of this 
girth to tcp of corner pest A. Next make four 4 lower corner 
braces H. by cuttirg from 2x4s on a right angle miter, and long 
enough to fit snug up under lower giith at corner p'ost, and ex- 
tend out on base B. and toe-nail irr place. Next make south 
and north side giiths E. by cirttiDg 1x4x12 ft. just 6 ft. long mak- 
ing two for each side. Now cut notches in your corner posts A. 
on your end frames to sink these side girths even with face of 
corner pest, cne being on the lower corner and the other just 
2 ft. 6 inches from lower edge of frame to top edge of girth on 
line with Icwer girth C. irr end frame. Wherr you have these 
notches all cut to fit the side girths and girths ready, place 
your end frames over the F. ends of the sub-base standing them 
in place plumb, and stay-lath in place to the sub-base Now 
screw your side girths E. iir place firm by means of two 2 inch 
screws at each end; this will, hold ycur frame together and you 
can remove ycur stay-laths. To make first floor supports take a 
2x4x12 ft. and cut 6 ft. le-s the thichness of the two top side 
girths E. for suppoit R. Fig 8, and tack to them temporarily, so 
it leaves a 10 inch opening betv/een it and irrside of east end 
frame, then take a strip of galvenized iron 1 1-2 inch wide nail to 
top edge of girth E, close to this 2x4 pass around under the 
lower side clcte to the end of this 2x4, and back to top edge of 
girth and nail; this will hold this 2x4 support in place without 
nailing, by doing likewise with each end. Halfway between this 
floor support and the west end frame cut notches 1x8 inch in 
both south arrd north top girths to drop in a board you can cut 
to fit 1x8x6 ft. support L. Fig. 8 this board with the 'latter 2x4 
answers as center supports for the first floor, which rest on 
these and the two 2x4 end girths C. toe-irailed in the end 
frames. You are ready to put in all fillers, I call them the 1x2 
inch strips marked J. to support the 3 ply roofing I cover the 
west end with, you can see from Fig. 8 how they are prrt in by 
means of toe-nailing u?eing 6d finish nails, and are put in flush 
with outside of frame and are all cut to fit its respective place. 
Now cut aud nail in place your guide strips from 1x2 in. strips 
for the upper floor on both east and west end frames; you will 
see in Fig. 8 one is in plain view on west end frame and Fig. 9 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



17 




Fig. 7. 

Fig, 7. This Photo shows the New Laying House closed for cold and bad weather, and 
storms, the fowls havinsi- plenty of ventilation, and no drafts, as the entire East End is open 
which is covered with one inch mesh wire first, and the two.upper rooms have ti-ood unbleach- 
ed muslin tacked over the wire; thus giving plenty of light as well as ventilation. 



18 GOOO J.AYING HENS OX 1 ACRE 

also shows them as marked K. and the side strip of lath for 
side guide. This guide strip being one piece one foot long na-iled 
to the frame on north or back side on the level for the second 
floor to rest on at the back side when in place, and from the 
south end of this one foot piece nail a piece to slope within one 
foot of the top of the upper front girth E. and comes out within 
one inch of front edge of the end frame; this guide strip is 
nailec^ to the end frame after a lath is nailed to the back edge 
to act as a side guide in putting floor in place after being let 
down aud drawn out for cleaningj this 1x2 inch guide strip 
is nailed with its narrow edge to the end frame, thus giv- 
ing the wide side to act as a slide track for the floor to 
slide on ; both east and W3st ends are made alike. This house has 
three floors, the ground floor in the sub-base, and 2 1-2 feet 
above this is the first floor, and 2 1-2 feet above this is the 
fieeond floor, or roost dropping floor. Make the first floor next. 
I use the 1x4x12 il. common flooring for this, this floor is made 
in tAvo separate halves, each cleated together with 1x2 inch 
strips like doors, the boards running east and west-wise of the 
house, and are cut to fit inside of the hotise and rest on the 
West and east end girths C. also laying over the south and north 
side girths E. and supported in center by the center supports L. 
and R. Support R. being within 10 in. from the east end frame. 
Through this floor over this 10 inch opening you must leave an 
opening 10 inches wide between the support R. and the east end 
frame, and have it extended within one foot of the north side 
and eighteen inches of the front or south side for a stairway, to 
allow the birds to come up from the ground floor. The halves 
of this floor are made by useing 1x2 inch strips for cleats 
three to the half, having the cleats so placed so they will not 
come in contact with the end girths or center supports when 
the floor is in place with cleats on the under side. 

See Figs. 6 and 9 to make the panels of the north side above 
each opening for doors; these pannels are made of 1x4x12 ft. 
flooring cleated together with three 1x2 inch cleats the end 
ones being placed just the thickness of the 2x4 corner posts Q. 
in Fig. 9 from the end of the panels, so when p-ut in place they 
will fit closely to help brace the house. See Fig. 9 Letter T. on 
upper pannel, also brace cleats U. in same panel. The letters 
V. represents the common flooring boards. The lower panel 
being 17 inches wide and screwed in place with Three 2 inch 
screws at each end, the lower edge being even with the top of 
upper girth E. on the north side. The top panel is 25 inches 
wide and screwed in place wdth three 2 inch screws at each 
end just one foot above lower panel, and should be even with 
the top of corner posts; also lower edge being 7-8 inch below 
the top of top girth C. in east and west ends. Turn to Fig. 5 to 



CKANE'8 SYSTEM 



19 




SoutKSui 






Fig. 8. 

Pig. 8, This cut is from- a drawing of the frame work of my New Laying House, show- 
ing roof suspended over it. This cut gives about all dimentions, but will be explained fully in 
Directions for Building. 



make front of south side panels, the top one being made of Ix 
4 inch flooring and three boards wide, and cleated at the ends 
and center same as north side panels and screwed to place with 
two 2 inch screws at each end, so that top edge is even with top 
of corner posts A. Fig. 8. For the lower panel take a 1x12x6 ft. 
board and cleat the ends inside same as the other panels, cut 
an opening 4 inches wide and five feet long out of the center 
of this board having upper edge of opening 3 inches from the 
top' edge for my galvenized feed trough as shown in Fig. 16 Let- 
ters H. I. J. Screw this panel in place with 3, 2 inch screws at 
each end, having lower edge of panel even with top edge of 
top front girth E. To make the roof as shown in Fig's. 5, 6, 7, 8 
and 9, use common flooring lx4xM ft. and 1x2 in. strips for cleats. 
The roof is made like the first floor in two halves and projects 
4 inches over the house on all sides, this makes the length of 
the roof 6 ft. 8 inches so the flooring is cut this length and 



20 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

nailed to three cleats, one in the center and one at each end 
so as to fit close to outside of gable boards on each end frame^ 
see Fig, 9 letter Z. After making both halves of the roof put 
them in place ,hook down the front half by means of screen 
door hooks and eyes on the underside, inside of house by pla- 
cing one hook at the gable at each end and one at each corner 
and one in the center in front. Hook down north half of roof 
with three of these hooks on the underside of roof and outside 
of house. Cover roof with 3 ply roofing as shown in Fig. 8 
laying it from south to north over the ridge, then put on a 
pair of 5 inch strap hinges over the end frames at each end. 
These hinges will allow the north half of the roof to be unhook- 
ed and raised for more ventilation in hot weather, or to fold 
north half of roof over onto south half, for taking down and 
moving, or shipping safely. Take 1x1 inch strips and nail to 
roof from under side inside close to north and south eves to cover 
any small cracks that might be there to prevent drafts; also to 
keep roof from sliding down too far from wind storms etc. See 
how back half of roof is raised for ventilation in Fig's. 7, 29, 30. 
To cover the east end frame as shown in Fig. 5 take inch mesh 
wire 3 ft wide, and two widths 6 ft. 6 inches long each will cover 
it, and tack on with double pointed staple tacks, and cover 
over this, front of the two upper rooms unbleached muslin 8 
cent quality one yard wide two strips 1 1-2 yd. long with edges 
seM^ed together and tack on tight with common carpet tacks as 
shown in Fig. 5. Cover the west end, see Fig. 6, use the 3 ply 
roofing, one yard wide cuts best, as two widths cover to no 
waste, each strip cut 6 ft 8 inches long and nailed with nails and 
C'lp.^ that come with it, the same as the roof To make the 
swinging screens, see Fig's 5 and C the ones for the upper front 
opening is made in two screens with a one inch space all 
around each; first nail in a 1x2 inch strip to the back and just 
even with the lower edge of the front top panel; also to the 
back and even with the top of front lower panel that the feed 
trough opening is in. Insert screw ej^es in this upper strip 
from the under side to hang these screen doors to, useing two 
to each door. Take 1x2 inch strips and make your frames for 
the screens by mitering the corners using corrugated box fas- 
tners 1-2 inch and 6d finish nails to fasten the corners with, 
then insert screw-hooks to the top edge of the screens to 
correspond and hook in the screw-eyes you placed in the strip 
above the opening to act as hinges for the screens to swing 
on, and cover the screens with 1 inch mesh wire from your 1 
yd. wide netting using double pointed staple tacks. Make the front 
and back lower screens and hang the same way, placing the 
screw-eyes in under side of upper girths ¥j. Fig. 8. To make 
outside doors see Fig's 5 and 6, the nest door as shown 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



21 




FiiT ^) This cut is from a drawing intending to make plain 
how the'interior of the two upper rooms of the house are ar- 
ranged and built. 



22 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

in Figure 6 is made from 1x12x6 foot board as this openiag 
should be just one foot wide, by cleating the board with 
three cleats to prevent warping and hinge to upper panel, 
but the lower back and the two front outside doors is made from 
1x2 inch strips cut to fit the openings by miteiiug the cornel's, 
and made like the screen framts only you put in cr3=:s filler 
strips as shown in the illustration, then cover the fiame with 
3 ply roofing and hinge to place with 5 inch strap hinges. One 
pair to the door is enough if placed as shown in Fig. 7. You now 
make a stairway for first floor, see Fig. 9 letteis I and J. of up- 
per stairway ; it is made 1x8x55 in. with strips of lath nailed cross 
wise about 6 inches apart for treads, and place two screw-hooks 
in the upper end to match two screw-eyes, you now place 
in edge of the floor at back end of opening you left in the 
floor for this purpose, having the hook end of screw-hooks 
turned down, so they will drop in the screw-eyes, acting as a 
hinge for the stairway; bore a half inch hole in the center of 
lower end, now raise the stairway up to the floor, and place a 
screw-eye in lower side of floor just east of the hole in the 
stairway, now bore a half inch hole throue^ the corner post 
A. Fig. 8 in line with the screw-c.\ e placf.: .u the floor from the 
outside, also see Fig. 5, see rope hanging from this hole in south 
east coiner. Take 4 ft. of sash cord running it through the hole 
in corner post, screw-eye and hole in lower end of stairway 
with a knot at each end, and by pulling this coid you can raise 
the stairway up close to the first floor, and by driving two 
nails close together part way in, in the corner post at the right 
height from the hole to receive the knot in the end of the cord 
when the stairway is drawn up, will hold it up until released, 
when the stairv\^ay will drop down; but one should have a knot 
in the outer end of this cord just right so not to allow the bot- 
tom of the stairway to not come closer than 5 or 6 inches of the 
ground. To make shield or fence around lower stairway, see 
Fig. !) letter C. this is for the purpose of keeping hay or litter 
from being scratched to ground floor, is made by using 1x12 
inch board cutting one piece to extend fi'om back of house to 
front edge of stairway opening, another piece to extend across 
the front end of opening, and nail together, now cut out notch 
for hens' to pass around through the back end about 6 inches wide 
and 8 inches deep leaving 4 inches for the hens to walk over 
as they pass up or down stairs; now do not nail this fence in 
place, but by nailing cleats of IxH inch to the floor and on back 
wall to hold this fence in place and for Leghorns (they being 
more active) I use the second fence or hallway as you will see 
in Fig. 9 letters D. and cleat B. holding it in place on back 
wall, but should have one on floor on west and south sides to 
hold it in place. For nests, after nailing cross cleats as shown 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



23 




E 



D a □ D D 

D D n D D 

D D D D □ 

D D D D D 

D D D D D 

D D D D □ 

D D n D D 

n D D D D 

D D D D D 

D D D D D 

D D □ □ □ 

D D D D D 

D D D D □ 

D D □ □ □ 

n D D n D 

n D D D □ 

n □ □ □ D 

D D D D D 

D D D D □ 

D D □ □ n 

-Eio \Sf 



n D D 
n n D 

D D D 

□ n D 

D D D 

D n D 

D D D 

D n D 

n D D 

□ an 
a D □ 

□ an 

□ □ □ 

□ □ □ 

□ □ □ 

□ □ □ 

□ □ D 

nan 
nan 
ana 



□ 

D 

□ 
□ 
□ 
□ 
□ 

n 
□ 

D 

n 
a 
a 
□ 

□ 
□ 
□ 

□ 



Fig. 10. 

from East to West four feet apart m the ro« . and "^^^^^.^'^ °;°Vio feet square and when 
the row and 14 rows, which ^- --■''' "^^^^^^^^ IZILZ^.^^^^^^ for three 
mated up with Lesrhorns. twenty females to one '^'■^^- ^^^^^l^'^l^^l^^^ ■■ 
years, figures 6174 birds on the acre. -See Introduction of Ciane s b>stem. 

^n Fig 8 letter J. on both east and west end frames one foot 

'4^ the floor to support the ?-f .«V^^ Tfift lli ess tht 
place the nest board which is 1x8 inch and 6ft. loiig less^*^^ 
fhickness of the two end frames of the ^J^^,^" ^ ^f '.\ ^^^^^ii^^ 
Place on this board as is shown in Fig. 9 letter H by maKiii^ 
S: as^n Fig. 11, only you will have to -t^out paH of back m 
order to gather eggs from tlK^ back, and ^^^^^f . \^, ^^i^^'^to 
hens. Finish stairway fence by using pieces of ath nailed o 
the stairway fence as shown m Fig. 9 front of nest H. We win 
put in second floor. First we must put in the center guide rail 



24 0000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

as is shown in Fig. 9 letter K. You have already put in the 
guide strip's on east and west ends, and there must be a cen- 
ter one to hold the center of the two halves of the second 
floor in place, when hooked up or let down for cleaning; as the 
second floor is made in two halves M. there being one on the 
east and one on the v/est halves of the house, and as shown in 
Fig. 9 the center guide rail is let down in front and the west 
half of floor ]\I. is let down for cleaning. This center guide 
rail is made of 1x4 inch with 1x1 inch strips nailed in the cen- 
ter of it ; take a piece one foot long and nail one end to the 
center of lowa^r edge of back upper panel, and the other end is 
held in ])lace by means of screw-eyes and wire hook figures 3 in 
Fig. 9 to the upper back panel, i-o it remains in a horizontal 
position : to this is hinged from under side to a piece long enough 
to leach to the front edge of floor when hooked up in place, 
and within 2 inches of the front end of this guide rail is placed 
a screw-eye and another directly over it in the front half of 
roof and by means of a long wire hook figure 2. Fig 9 hooks up 
this center guide rail in place when the second floor halves are 
hooked up in place. As you have the guide rails in place. Make 
second floor in two halves to fit losely soo they will slide easiy 
in pace and to extend in front to the screen doors only, which 
will be one inch from front edge of front frame of house When 
this center guide rail is unhooked and let down it will not 
reach the top edge of lower front panel for a rest; so to pro- 
vide a rest, I use a piece lxi'4x6 in. long cut a notch in center 
of top edge of front panel, on a slope equal to slope of center 
guide rail when let down so when this piece is inserted and nailed 
in it, it will be even with top edge of this panel in front, so 
wiien the center guide rail is let down on this to rest it will be 
in line with the end guide rails. You will notice in Fig. 9 that 
this M cond floor when in place is level with the top edge of 
end girths R. in Fig. 9. Second floor frames is made but of 1x2 
inch strips by mitering the corners as other frames for doors, 
and putting in necessary strips to support the covering, which 

1 use poorest grade galvanizeel iron, and use lath nails to 
nail it to the frames anel clinch the nails as they will go throujjh 
some ; this will pa^- as tacks will soon come out. In the east 
side floor leave an opening 10 inches wide on the east siele, and 
to extend 1 ft. from the rear, and to within 18 inches from the 
frcnt, to place the upper stairway, as will be seen in Fig. 9 let- 
ters I and J. Place Screw-eyes in front end of both floors about 

2 inches from front end and six inches from outside of each floor 
aiul place two in the under side of front half of roof to c'or- 
r( spend, and make two long hooks the right length to hook 
the.?e floors to tlu' roof by means of these hooks anti screw- 
eyes, and have the floors held level, and even with the top 



CRAiNEM SYSTEM 



25 




Fig. 11. 

Fig. 11 This drawing represents a Blind Nest to be used in my Houses when a Trap Nest 
is not wished, and is made from a common apple box, 

DIRECTIONS FOR IVIAKING:— Take si common apple box and take out one end and set 
it in near the center of the box, first cutting out a notch in the back upper corner about six 
inches wide and eight inches deep to allow the hen to pass into the nest and out. then cut off 
the front board even with the boai-d .vou set in and nailed securel.v. now nail a cleat crosswise 
at the outer end of the back board to i)revent splitting, and when the nest isto be used in my 
large Laying House, you will have to cut out a portion of the back of the nest, so you can 
gather the eggs, and care for the laying hens from the b»ick: an opening six in. square wUl 
answer. 



•edge of the end girths H. Fij^-. '.) in Ix'th end fianu's. Make up- 
per stairway like the lower, out of 1x8x46 in. long as shown 
with strips of lath on as letters I J. Fig. 9, and use screw-eyes 
a.iid screw-hooks as in lower floor stairway to hinge it in 
place in upper floor. To make the prop A. in Fig. 9, use a piece 
of 1x1 inch 47 inches long and place a strong screw-hook in 
each end, the one intended for the upper end straighten the 
hook out some ; place a screw-eye in under side and near lower 
edge and in the center of front upper door to receive the 
screw-hook of uppei- end of this prop, and another screw-eye 
two inches bekw feeding trough and in the center of lower 
front panel to receive lower end hook of this pi op, but in put- 
ing in this pi op, hook in lower end first, then having upper 
liook straightened out enough can be placed in screw-eye in up- 
per door, and will hold this door up and yet leave it to slope for- 
ward enough to allow rain to run off of front lower edge. Raise 
lower front door to the prop and by means of a screw-hook and 
•eye is hooked to prop as figure 4. Fig. 9. By means of screw- 
eyes and making long wire hooks both back doors can be hooked 
up as desired, see Fig. 6. If one is building only one or two of 
these houses its wise to anchor them to the ground to prevent 
up'-setting in heavy wind storms, by taking 2x4 in. pieces about 
3 ft. long and digging holes about two feet in the ground at 
each liack comer and one inside center in front and setting 



26 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

these 2x4 pieces about two feet in the ground, and bolting the 
two l.aek ones to the corner posts of the house and the front 
one to the lower girHi, see F\g~. 5 and 6. By cutting a hole 
through the wire nettiiig in the lower back corner of the east 
end 01 the house large enough to let the chickens' heads 
come through and plaoiiig a one gallon milk crock with water. 

1 find is the best way to provide water for the l>irds in these 
hou£ef-: and the easiest kind of a vessel to keep clean and sani- 
tary and where one has several of these houses and can have 
the " Auto-Pheumatic I're.'-h Wa'er Supply, "' as described under 
this subject in another place, with running water fresh from the 
bottom of a well all the tin.e at each cj ock Vv'itli ove.flow 
drain urakes this System ideal, and saves a great deal of labor. 
For a first class water fountanr, see Moe's Top Fill Fountain 
advertisement in back of this book. You now have the house 
completed all but the Roosts which you will find illustrated as 
Fig. 21, and description and directions for buildiirg and placing 
in the bouse under subject, "Mite Proof Roosts." To make feed 
trough for lower front panel see Fig. 16 letters I. and J. Where 
one is building several of these houses they can be fastened to- 
gether at the tops by means of 1x4 irr. strips under the t^ves, S3 
it would not be necessary to anchor them to tbe groi;nd. In 
building these houses stationary, all paneling front and back and 
roof could be rrailed orr solid without cleats, but flccis should be 
made removable to allow taking out all floors and fixtures inside, 
easily and quickly for thoro house cleaning from twice to loav 
times annually. For winter 1 use drop curtains ai ound roosts. 
To make same I use 10 oz. AVhite Duck 1 yard wide, ma; ing v;ne 

2 yarcs long to hang in frorrt, or east of the roost, tac' et! to 
the center cleat under the roof w^ith a strip 1x1 in. taci.ed to 
its bottom that rests on the second floor when in place; and one 
curtain 1 yd. long tacked to strip the screen door hanrs to the 
front of the roost wdth a strip of 1x1 in. tacked to its bottom 
that also rests on the floor when in place. When these curtains 
are down they will hold in the body heat of the chickens in 
the roost room and at 8 degrees below we seldorh ever get a 
frosted comb even on a Leghorn, as we do not let the birds out 
of the roost room until the siirr is up in the moriring, then by 
raising the front end of the 1x1 in. strip at the bottom of the 
curtain running cross-wise of the house, and resting it on the 
strip the screen door is hung to in front, they can come out from 
under it, and also back in the evening, and when 1 close the 
house at night I drop this curtain down, when tliey will be 
safe until sun-up next day. 

To modify this house for colder climates I would have .-torui 
sash made with glass to fit east end, front of the two lower 
rooms, and the two front openings on the south side to take 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



27 




Fig. 12. 

Fig 12 This Photo sho« . my Oat Sprouting Department, Four RncL s. of five drawers each 
makin/a total of twenty draws, each holding two bushels. ^^^^ ^ ^ ^'^^^^f^f^'^ "'/"f/. 
bushell With this outfit we were able to furnish all the ereen f. ed t^at ^'^^ ^^^'^^^ '"^^^^^l 
head all winter and some 6(.0 to 700 head of growing chicks all sprmg. See .utoect Oat Sprouting 
for Green Feed." 



28 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

place of the front screens. Screw the one on the east end and 
hinge the others in front, after fitting them closely, and keep 
the back or north doors closed tight; then use about a 10 oz. 
Duck on east front of the upper room, and with the above win- 
ter curtains inside this hooi'se will be practicable as far north as 
Minneapolis I believe ; but the watering would have to be done 
inside of the house to keep from freezing up through the day. 

Caring for Large Laying House 



"We will suppose the house we start with needs a thoro clean 
ing fiom having been used. Unhook and take out second floor 
Unhook, raise back half of roof about 6 in. Raise roost brack- 
ets out of the screw-eyes, and take out roosts. Remove nests 
and nest board. Remove fencing around lower stairway, and 
untie draw cord at bottom of stairAvay, remove stairw^ay. By 
standing in opening of lower stairway one can by lifting on the 
center of iirst floor, loosen both halves of it, and by pulling each 
half toward the center, and lifting east end a little and shov- 
ing it a little against the mesh wire on east end, be able to turn 
each half, so it can be turned and lifted out the front, or be 
taken out of back lower opening. Take out the 1x8 in. and 
2x4 in. supports under the first floor. You have nothing left 
inside the house now. By taking off lower screens after hook- 
ing up lower outer doors, clean out all dirt not fit to remain. 
Take a 12 qt. sprinkle pot filled with water and add two table- 
spoonful of concentrated lye, stir until dissolved, and sprinkle 
it all on the remaining dirt in sub-base and take another and 
sprinkle, and with an old broo!m and pail, drench the house with 
it inside. Still take the third sprinklerful and sprinkle, wash and 
scrub all floors and pieces that you have taken out of the 
house You can now spade up the dirt left in the sub-base and 
fill sub-base even full of fresh, fine pulverized dirt. When all 
parts of the house is fairly dry you can replace all floors and 
fixtures of tlie house by replacing first floor, and so on in re- 
verse Older you took them out. Place in a good litter on the 
first floor, good fine hay I like the best, as I find the birds 
will eat most of this as they scratch so much, they break it up 
in fine bits and eat it, so it answers both as litter and feed. 
Keep phnty of fine hay in your nests. You can now place your 
birds in the house, and if the}^ have never been in one of these 
houses before, arrange to put them in, in the morning and gen- 
erally by night they will have hecome acquainted with the 
house enoi^gh to find the roost themselves, although some of 
the larger breeds have to be shown a few times; but generally 
all leam to cliitil) the stairs readily and seem to really enjoy 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



29 




3 ^^9'^ 



Fig 13 This is a drawing, showing one of the Oat Sprouting Cases or Racks to hold Five 
Draws, but the draws are out. so as to show ihe construction. To build, see Oat Sprouting for 
Green Feed." 



30 (H.GU LAYING HENS <m I A( HE 

being confined in this house, S3 much so they don't care to come 
out if they are fed properly. From this on besides feeding, 
wateiing and gathering eggs, all the attention you will have to 
(give the houses is in early morning open up the house and set 
doors as you want them for the day. In warm summertime we 
keep both lower doors and upper front one hooked up. In win 
ter the lower back door is always fastened down and the win- 
ter curtains in, and one has to open this, by raising the front 
end of the curtain stick and resting it on the strip over the up- 
per front screen door, and close at night after seeing all birds 
are on the roost or inside of the curtains; but South doors are 
hooked up the year round here in the day time in pleasant 
weather. 

The house has to be cleaned once a week only. We com- 
mence at the top and clean the dropping, or second floor by tak- 
ing out the upper screens and unhooking second floor, letting 
down the front and drawing out over a wheelbarrow and clean 
off with a hoe with a long handle. Replace floor and dust it 
with road dirt. Place in a good bundle of fine hay on first 
floor once a week same time of cleaning. Drive the fowls all 
up on first and second floors, draw up lower stairway and hook 
up rope ; now having both lower outside doors hooked, remove 
lower screens ; by use of garden rake, rake out the dirt well. 
Sprinkle about one quart of dry oats on the ground floor and 
by means of a spading fork, or crooked fined manure fork, dig 
up the dirt as deep as you can, working from both sides of the 
house, reaching half way inside. The h^ns will dig and scratch 
and wallow in this dirt for a whole week enjoying themselves 
looking for those oats. Wash out feed trough in front lower 
panel and see that the water crock or fountain if one is used is 
washed and rinsed out every day before Avatering; and if water- 
ing is done by hand never let the vessles go dry. Keep plenty 
of fresli, clean water before them all the time, changing often- 
er the better to keep it fresh and cool in warm weather ; the.y 
enjoy it as well as a person, and it pays too. After houses are 
all ceaned, clean walks all around the house, keeping every- 
thing picked up clean. When the houses are kept in constant 
use a thoro cleaning should be done, as above described, at 
least twice a year, and would be better if done three or four 
times each year. The first floor and nests need not be cleaned 
oftener than once a month, and might be alright to go tw» 
months at a time, in winter, without serious results. The last 
thing every night, I see that the houses are closed to suit the 
weather, and everything is alright for the night. 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



31 




Fii. 14 This drawing is the same as Figure 13 with the Draws in, one being drawn out 
,howin7(t filled wUh sprouted Oats, and in position for mixing up and sprinkhng. wh.ch . done 
twice daily. 



32 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

Caring For and Feeding Laying Stock 



I might give you several tat.les of balanced rations for dif- 
ferent purposes, but the average person would be at sea then,, 
so I am going to give my own methods I have used and which 
have been so marveloush' succesful in my confinement system. 
First confined stock must be fed different from hens on range. 
I seldom feed corn, corn chops, or com meal only to growing 
young stock, cocks or cockerels when fed separately, or condit- 
ioning birds for show purposes. My first early morning feed 
would be sprouted oats, what they will eat up clean readily and 
about two hours later I would make a scalded mash of 2 parts 
Bran, 1 part Shorts and 1 part Alfalfa meal, to a pailful of this 
mixed dry add 1 pt. of ground oyster shells, and scald about a pail- 
ful of water with the house-scraps and to this water stir in while 
scalding hot, 1 pt. of oil cake meal and a small tablespoonful of 
salt, also one teaspoonful of red pepper and mix this with your 
dry mixture in a wash tub with a shovel so its all moist, but 
stiff. If you find its too sloppy, add a little more Bran and 
Shorts until it is alright and feed at once. Try to feed it all 
out, as what is left over in summer will sour and is unfit for 
food, but do not feed more than they will eat up readily. At 
noon I again feed sprouted oats, all they will eat up readily,, 
and at night I feed grain in the hay or litter and make them 
SCI ate h for it, and be sure they have plenty of hay all the time. 
This will keep them busy a good deal of the spare time they 
get the next day. As for the grain I feed at night I will feed 
wheat, dry oats and soaked oats, separately, mixed and changing 
off sometimes to one and sometimes to the other. If I see my 
hens aie not fat, I will treat them to a little corn chops once a 
week or so, but never whole corn. Leghorns will stand more 
corn in confinement than heavier breeds. The above is for 
hand feeding and you will see I feed lots of sprouted oats, as 
it is good and the more they can have of them, the less of other 
grain they will consume, therefore costing less to keep your 
flock. Now for hopper feeding in my houses, doing away with 
half the labor, mix for the automatic dry mash hopper, 2 parts 
Bran, 1 part Shorts, 1 part Alfalfa meal. To 12 qts. of this 
mixture, add 1 pt. oil cake meal, all mixed well. To fill the Nor- 
wich Automatic Feeder use 1 part "Wheat, 2 parts dry Oats. To 
12 qts. of this mixture add 2 qts. of Corn Chops, with all large 
pieces screened out of it so it will not clog the hopper and 1-2 
pint of ground dry bone. Feed sprouted oats freely, early morn- 
ing and noon, or if no sprouted oats are to be fed, use the fol- 
lowing in the Automatic Dry Mash Hopper: 2 parts Bran, 2 
parts Shorts, 2 parts Alfalfa Meal with 1 pt. Oil-cake meal to the 



CRANE'8 SYSTEM 



33 




Fig:. 15. Thi.s draw inj;' is of Crane's Auto- 
matic Dry Mash Hopper, and lettered for de- 
scription. See description under subject. 



12 qiiaits of Mixture. Always keep Griit, Oyster-shell and Char- 
coal in the main feeding trough when Hopper feeding. Twice 
a week I usually feed 1-2 lb. of green ground bone to each of my 
large laying houses. To force moulting in general 1 see that all 
hoppers are empty and give them no feed for throe days, but 
see that they have plenty of fresh water and after the three 
dajs I feed in two feeds a day what I would call about 1-4 of 
what I would regularly feed each day for two or more weeks 
according to the condition of the birds, for if they are very fat 
to start with, it will take more than two weeks of fasting to 
start the feathers. See that all laying stock has plenty of fresh '- 
wpter all the time and if one will use three drops cf carbolic;^ 
acid to the quart of water, and no more, you will be very much 



34 GOOO LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

less liable to have any disease break out among your fowls. See 
that all houses are well cleaned once a week with the dust bath 
cleaned and loosened up. See ''Careing for my Large Laying 
House." Do not expect the featheis to all drop at once during 
forcing moulting, but as soon as they get loos-e, and are dropping 
well, go to feeding stronger and in two to three days get back to 
feeding the usual rations, only you can feed a little more as they 
will act very hungry and will consume more food, which witl 
start the old feathers to get out of the way for the new ones 
coming in, and during the time of their growing new feathers 
they rei.uire more feed. Do not neglect giit, bone, shell and 
either meat, or green ground bone at this time. Some use beef 
meal for animal food, but I never sav,' Kuy yet which I thought 
was fit ior food, and I would not feed it withor.t scalding it. 
It ma} all be a notion of mine, but if I can get good fresh 
green giound bone I much prefer it to beef meal, or beef scrap. 

SpeciucatEons and Directions for Building My 

Portable, Colony Chick Raising or Small 

Mating Breeding House 



See I i;'js. 17, 18 and 19. The Lumber and Material List as 

Follows : 
2 — 1x4x12 ft. Common Boards 
6 — 1x4x12 ft. Common Boards Ripped once to make 12 — lx2x 

12 It. 
1 — 1x4x12 ft. Common Boards Ripped three times to make 4^ 

1x1x12 ft. 
1 — Piece Coirugated Galvanized Iron 2ft. x 10 ft. 
1 — Piece Plain Galvanized Iron 33x33 inches. 
3— Yds. 3 ply Roofing. 1 Yd. Wide. 
1 — Doz. Screen Door Hooks and Eyes 2 1-2 in. long. 
1 — Window Sash Cord Pully. 
1 — Lb. Sd Nails Common. 
2— Lb. Cd Nails Finish. 
5 cents worth Roofing Nails. 
5 cents worth Roofing Caps. 
1- — 1-3 Yds. 8 oz. Canvas. 
1 — Yd. sq. 1 inch Wire Mesh. 
1 — Lb. Lath Nails. 

1 — Box Corrugated Steel Box Fastners. 
1 — ^Pair 3 inch Hinges. 
5 cent Package Carpet Tacks. 
5 cents worth Double pointed staple Tacks. 
2— Yds. Window Cord. 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



35 






Fig. 16. These drawing-s are of four different article.?. "Crane's Automatic Water Foun- 
tain with Bab.v Chick Attachment," "Feeding Trough for m.v Lavinu' House." "Feeding- Trough 
for Colony Chick Raisin.? and small Mating Breeding Houses." and "OilCupsfor the Roost Rods in 
my Large Laying House." See the above entitled subjects for full description and direction f»r 
making all of the above. 



36 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

1 — ^Yd. .Heavy Unbleached ^Fuslin. 

1—7 ft. Post. 

1—6 inch Bolt. 

2 — ^Yd.s. 1 Yd. wide of 10 oz. Duck for winter curtain. 

This Mateiial List costs here about $4.25, and Carp-enters- 
want about $1.50 for building one. Commencing with Fig. 19. 
yon will see nearly all parts of the house as it is made np in sec- 
tions, and how hooked together. First we will make the base, 
which is made by cutting two lx-4xl2 ft. into two Gft. long pieces, 
for the side pieces, and cutting three pieces 2ft. 10 1-2 inches long 
for the two ends and center. Nail together with 8d common nails 
by nailing the sides onto the ends and nail in the center piece ; but 
raise it one inch higher than side pieces on top, so it can help 
hold the house proper in the center of the house. Cut four pieces 
on a right angle mitei' one foot long and toe-nail in the corners 
in west end even with l)ottom edge of base to rest the floor 
frame on, and this will hold the base square. The corner braces 
coming next to the cent<ir piece can be nailed to it from the 
under side. Cut two pieces 1x1 inch 4 inches long and nail in 
corners of base at west end over floor rests, or corner braces 
with 6d finish nails so these corner posts will extend above the 
top edge of base to hold house in place, and they must not ex- 
tend more than tAvo inches in the base so as not to come in the 
way of the floor. Cut two more for the dirt, or east end of the 
base, about 6 inches long, these can extend to bottom edge of 
the base, and will extend 2 inches above top to hold that end of 
house in place. Set base on the ground where wanted so it rests 
on the giouixl at the highest corner or end and have it slope to^ 
the north about two inches the lowest, and level the other cor- 
ners up to this with brick or using dirt; spade up the dirt in- 
side, of diit end of the house left for this puipose, making the 
dirt fire and deep, filling this end full to the top, all worked fine 
for dust bath ; but need not be dust dry. Grade up dirt on out- 
side all around so surface water will drain away from the house. 
To make floor for west end, cut frame from 1x2 inch 33 1-2 in. 
sq. by miteiirg corners and nail with 6d finish nails and cover- 
with the piece of galvanized iron 33x33in. if you have to us:^ two 
pieces of iicn place a 1x2 inch strip, under the joint and toe-nail 
in place and nail the i;on on the frame with lath nails and clincb 
them^ Put in about two 1x2 in. strips in all, in this floor frame 
to support the iron across the inside of frame, and toe-nail them 
in place. Put the floor in place under the corner posts of base 
by entering edge next west end of house first, and then it will 
drop in place if everything has been made rifiht. To make the 
north and s:outh sides make two frames of L-f. irch 6fl. long and 
2 ft. high, miter the corners and nail by ueirf, l)ox fastncrs and 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



37 



iiimTT^' 




Fig. 17. 

Fig. 17. This Photo illustrates the south ard cast sides of m.v new Colony Chick Raising or 
Small Mating Breeding House. To buiW. see "Specifications and Directions for Building Portable 
Colony Chick Raising or Small Mating Breeding House." 



38 ()000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

6 d finish nails ; ])<)lh frames arc made alike. Cut and put in strip 
in the center find two others ha)f way from the center to the end 
on each end. Now cover the north side with two widths of 3 ply 
1 yd. wide roofing, up and down will just do it. Sec Fig. 18. To 
cover the south side, use 8 oz. canvas put on with carpet tacks 
for the three-fourths of the frout to the east end and cover the 
one-fourth next the west end with 3 ply roofing. See Fig. 17. 
To make the east and west end-:, inake frames same way 2 ft. T) 
in. long, and 1 ft. 11 in. high, with one strip in center, and 
cover with 3 ply roofing 1 yd. up and down. See Figs. 17 and 18 
This will extend 1 inch over iLe- ends of the frame but will 
look right when the house is up. On the south and north frames 
you will nail 1 inch from the top edge, inside, 1x1 inch strips 
to extend within 1 inch of each end of frame for the screen frame 
to slide on. Also on each end one inch from tlie end nail 1x1 in. 
strips up and down for the end frames to strike against, as the 
end frames set inside of front and back frames. You can now 
place the back frame in place on the north side of ba'^e with the 
west end, and with two screen-dcor hooks and eyes, hook them 
together. Proceed to do likewise with east end, then the south 
side. With one hook and eye for each end, hook the ends to the 
base. You are now ready to make the roof. One should at the 
beginning cut two strips of 1x2 inch 6ft. 2 inches long for the 
roof from 2 — 1x2x12 ft. as the rest of each piece is not six feet 
long for other long pieces; but are long enough to make three 
pieces each for the inside strips for the front and back. Hav- 
ing done that, you have ready the two 1x2x6 ft. 2 inch long 
pieces for the front and back strips for the roof. Cut your 10 
ft. sheet of corrugated galvanized iron in three pieces each, 3 ft. 

4 in. long, and naii to these strips allowing two inches of the 
iron over the side of stiips at each end for eve drip, and as the 
three widths w^ill nicely cover the length of strips 6ft. 2 inches, 
when all nailed on and the roof is in place on the house you will 
find it extends over the house 1 inch at each end, and 2 inches 
• over front and back sides. After the iron is nailed on the front 

and back strips, nail three cross strips on top each 3 ft. long; 
One in the center and one at each end, nailing and clinching 
through iron and front and back side strips. Hinge the 
cover on noith side to north panel on outside with two 3 inch hin- 
ges. See there is a notch about 5 inches long cut out of the 2 in. 
eve of the roof in the center on the north side where the post 
comes. See Fig. 18. Dig hole for post in the center of the house 
on the back 2ft. deep from top of base, and set .post 7ft. long 
with a sash pulley that has been set in a mortise within one inch 
of the top of post from the back side, and two 2x4 in. blocks 

5 inches long has been nailed to back side of post to come be- 
tween post and house the top of one within 4 in. of the top 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



39 




Fig. 18. 

Fig. lit. This Photo is of the same house as Figure 17. showing north and west sides. 



40 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

edge (f back fraiiie ajul the otlier one, the bottom even with 
bottom of back frame. Place post in post-hole and raise the 
roof of house and set and tamp the post tig'ht so the top will be 
in c( Titer of the center root strip. Bore a 3-8 in. hole through 
centci /oof strip and roof near the south side or end of the 
centc] strij^ and put in your sash cord and tie a knot on under- 
side of roof, passing the other end through sash pulley in post 
and ](t ]Oof down. Tie weight of about 10 lbs. on outer end of 
rof( i'.ringing weight up to sash-pulley at top of post (for the 
wei(.!-t one can use a one gallon paint pail filled with dirt, a 
lai^e paving brick, or have a cast iron weight cast 1 in. thick 
2 in. wide and Sin. long. This Avould perhaps be the neatest, but 
most anything of 10 lb. weight will do.) Bore a 3-8 in. hole 
through post from back through center of upper block and 
back of house and put in the 3-8 in. bolt, and bolt house to post. 
If the 6 in. bolt is short in reaching through and getting burr on, 
chisel out a conutersink for its head in the post. By^ driving an 8d 
nail half way in at an angle of 45 degrees on the west side of 
post just above upper edge of sash pulley, one can take hold of 
sash cord just above the weight and throw cord over this nail 
next the post and it will lock the roof of the house stationary 
at any angle wanted, and the wind cannot change it. To make 
screen over the house under the roof, as you will see in all three 
Figs. 17, 18 and II:' but Fig. 17 is in place and the whole screen 
is in view, and 19 is fastened up to roof in order to take the 
photo. 1 his is made as you will Kte to slide east and west on 
your side strips nailed to the north and south sides one inch 
from the top, and as the east and west ends aie made 1 in. low 
er than the front and back, allowing this screen to slide inside 
of front and back panels over the east or west ends, and when 
the roof is closed with screen in place there is an inch sp:i?e 
for ventilation the whole length under the roof. The screen is' 
made 6 ft. long and 2 ft. 9 1-2 in. wide and mileied at the e:)r- 
neis, with center strip in center all nailed well with box fasten- 
ers, and 6 d, finishing nails. On the east end of this sc.een 
cover with 1 in. mesh wi:e, and the west end with good qual- 
ity unlileached muslin and l)y nailing a 1x1 in. strip about 6 in. 
long on top of west end of scieen to act as a handle to slide 
the scieens by, Avill add much to the life of the cloth. It is well 
to nail temporarily an 8 in. board (piece of 1-2 in. off of some 
dry gocds box is best) across the center of the house next to 
base, from front center strip, to back center strip, with a hole 4 
x5 in. cut out of the center from the lower edge, to allow the 
chicks to pass through when small; but when larger they will not 
scratch the littei- from the floor side to the dirt side so readily. 
It is wise also to place a hook in front in the roof to hook down 
the roof tight when heavy winds, or lain storms come up, as 



CRAinE'8 system 



41 




Fig. 19. 

Fig. 19. This Photo is of the same house as Figures 17 and 18, partly unhooked, showing sec- 
tions and how hooked together. 



42 GOOO LAYING HENS ON 1 ACKL 

the very heavy winds will raise the roofs, and hold them open 
against the post iJ' coming in the right direction, and wet the 
houses inside, and the chickens. Jn case of small special matiugs 
to be kept in these houses, make nests like P^ig. 11 and hang^ 
up next to screen to the back side, as is hliown in Fig. 17, and. 
for feed trough, and water fountains to feed and water the little 
chicks in; See Fig. 16. L. and A. B. C. D. E. F. G. also see Moe's 
Top Fill Fountain Advertisement in back part of this book. For 
a roost see Fig. 20 that 1 g-ot up c i/ccially for this house, it is 
used by setting it on the lilt' in the west end of the house, and 
is lifted oat and cleaned each morning and placed back at eve- 
ning. See instruction^ to make tlie same undei- subject of 
"Portable Koost and Di'oj:)ping Board"' elsewhere. These Houses 
can be set 4 ft. apart each way, and can be changed to face the 
north without changing post for hot weather in summer; giving 
no sun in the heat of the day, and a change of giound for the 
houses, and at this distance apart gives plenty of sunlight in win 
ter, and convenient space to get ai ound each house for careing 
for it. With this spacing 630 houses can be placed on one acre. 
See Fig. 22. For winter 1 cover the top screen all over with 10 
oz. Duck one yaid wide, (the only place 1 have found to buy 
this is at Montgomery Ward & Co. Kansas ( ity, Mo.) I tack 
the end over the Muslin secure and hem the other end and leave 
loose, so at night before closing- the joof down 1 draw this cur- 
tain over the wire end of the screen, and in the morning I 
throw it back over the west end of the lionse ; This will retain 
the body heat of the fowls at night so they will st^ud very- 
severe weather without frosting combs. 

Caring For Colony Chick Raising or 
Smail SVIating House 



I will commence giving instructions of the house with my 
Fireless Brooder filled with Baby chicks, see Fig 23. Before 
putting the chickens in it, if the house has been used, take off 
the screen ; take out feed trough ; take out center partition 
board, unhook the end frames from base, unhook ends from 
front and back panels, remove floor. With shovel clean out all 
dirt as deep as has been used as dust bath and sweep off all 
panels. Take a sprinkle pot, we will say for a rule, holding 12 
qts. of water, put in two tablespoonful of consentrated lye, and 
stir until dissolved. With this, spi-inkle ground inside of base 
and fairly wash down all sides and parts of the house. After it 
dries fill base level full on dirt side, of fine (juite dry dirt, and 
hook the house up. Put in center partition board. On floor 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



43 




Fig. 20 



Fig. 20. This is a drawing of my portable Boost and Dropping Board Combined, to be used 
in my colony, chick raibing or small mating breedii g houses. See Figures 17, 18 and 19. To make 
see "Portable Roost and Dropping Board." 



scatter chaff or alfalfa meal 1-2 inch thick and on this place 
the Firelcf-s Bicoder, which is under the muslin er.d of the 
screen. Place my Automatic Chick Water Fountain on a small 
board on ditt side for the first few days, using chick attachment 
D. Fig-. IG on the fountains the first week; and when the chicks 
are about two weeks old a strip about 12 in. long can be placed 
acrcss one corner on the bottom strip of end and side panels to 
rest the fountain on and the chicks will not scratch it so full of 
dill. The first few days there will be little to do about the house 
only to look after the little ones but by the time they are a w^eek 
old, see that the alfalfa meal is cleaned off often. Also keep 
the dirt cleaned off and kept pulverized, and by the time the 
chicks are three weeks old the dirt should be cleaned off and 
kept pulverized daily. One can use fine hay for litter on the floor 
end to feed fine grain in for the chicks to keen them busy after 
the first couple of weeks. This must be kept cleaned daily there- 
after until the chickens are old enough to roost, and that depends 
on the breed; Small breeds about 4 months old, while the large 
breeds I would rather wait until 5 to 6 months old as roosting too 
early induces them to have crooked breast bones. When you 
desire to leave the pullets in these houses for laying and breed- 
ing, you place in nest as soon as they show sigus of laying like 
Fig. 11, and you use roost as shown in Fig. 20 l)y placing it in 
west end of house on the litter and every morning this is lifted 
out and cleaned but the house now need not be thoroughly clean- 
ed only once a week. See at all times that there is plenty of well 
pulverized dirt in the dirt end of the house, and plenty of good 
litter on floor end. and do not let it remain wet, if it should get 
wet from any cause. Once a month lightlj^ sprinke with air-slack- 
ed lime on the floor and in the dirt after cleaning. The Fireless 
Brooder should be cleaned every day after the first few days. I 
leave it in the house just as long as the chickens can use it, and 
then usually the chickens can get along without a brooder of any 



44 GOOO LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

kind. Always keep the walks clean about the houses and not al- 
low litter to accumulate and decay on the ground. It's a good 
idea to sprinkle the ground in all the walks about the houses 
once a month. AVhen the weather is getting warm in the spring 
so the sun is too hot for the little chicks, drop the roof down 
within 12 to 15 in. of being closed, and anchor with the rope 
■over the nail on the post. On cold nights close the roofs tight 
and hook down on frosty and freezing nights and cold and 
blustry days in winter draw the extra canvas curtain over the 
wire mesh end of the house and close down the roof as the 
chickens have plenty of light and ventilation from the canvas 
front, and canvas overhead with inch space under the roof the 
whole length. 

Caring For and Feeding Baby Chicks 

There has been much written and said on this subject, and 
much more will be and still all people will never be successful 
in raising chickens, any more than all people are successful in 
raising babies of the human family. About so many die out of a 
hundred annually anyway; so it will be with the baby chicks. 
Yet I believe we can all learn to be more successful with more 
experience and I will try to tell here what I believe will be bene- 
ficial to others with less experience that has paid their money 
to get tliis book, from my experience after hatchinp- over 10,000 
eggs in 1911, and a good many before and since, I believe I am 
in a position to impart some ideas that will help the person that 
has never tried, auj^way. First place as soon as the incubator 
is through hatching, I like to have an incubator tl)at I can keep 
all the chicks in for 48 hours without food where they can be 
kept at about 100 degrees, the last 12 hours a little water 
given in my Autoniatic water fountain cup with the chick attach- 
ment only, in the incubator will not wet the machine or the chicks 
€0 they will not become too thirsty. When the 48 hours is up I 
place about 40 chicks in my fireless brooder in the incubator 
room, and using a pie tin to feed in, in the brooder with the 
hcop off, the yells of hard boiled eggs, and wheat bread 
crumbs soaked Math milk lightly for the first two or three days, 
when I commence feedinp: st'cl cut oat meal, tuid feed all they 
"will eat up clean several times a day, oftener the better if 
you feed no more than they will clean all up, and look for more. 
After this baked corn bread and wheat bread soaked in milk 
is good feed for thenr with the steel cut oat meal until when ten 
days old, sprouted oats may be given with sprouts about 1-2 in. 
to ore inch long, and these may, be fed a few at a time and very 
often it will tend to kee}) them busy, and will enjoy them, and 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



45. 




Fig. 21. This drawing: :s of my Portable "Mite Proof Roost." for use in the Large Lay 
iny House. Fig-ures ."i. 6. T. S and 9. See subject "Portable Mite Proof Roost ' for description- 
and directions for buildinji' elsewhere. 



you cannot feed them too much ; but it is better to feed no more 
than they will eat up clean each time. At a week old you can 
feed them sparirgly raw beef chopped fine once a day or every 
other day, and in making corn bread if you will use one tablespoon- 
ful of bone meal to the loaf will be excellent. Keep' fresh water 
before them all the time with 3 drops of carbolic acid to the 
quart in it, and no more (don't guess at it or you may poison 
your chickens) keeping the fountain washed daily, and clean the 
brooder and pen daily after the first few daj^s, keeping coarse 
sand, or grit for them where they can get at it from the start. 
See Hughes Stone Go's. Advertisement in the back part of this 
book. I used their grit this year exclusively, and I never ha>i 
chicks do better and lost less : also used it with my laying stock 
with as good results. After the first day or two I put the brood- 
er with its chicks out in ray chick raising house that has been 
made ready if the weather is pleasant, and let them out of the 
brooder en the fres-h diit, but I do not let them slay out of the 
brooder long at a time as they might get chilled, so I put them 
back in the brooder for awhile to hover. This has to be done 
often until they are taught where to go to get wa: m when they 
get cold, and some times it takes a good many times putting- 
back to teach tliem. This is my rrrain objection to the fireless. 
brooders, as it takes lots of time to teach these little fellows to- 
go in the brooder beiore they get chilled to hover; This led 
me to try the X-Ray Brooder this season, and the result is, I 
feel I cannot say tco much in its pi^aise, see "Incubators and 
B: coders.'' In the X-Ray I pii': the chicks in as soon as ready 
to feed, having it heated and regulated, and feed them in the 
machine on pie-tins the first time, and after that I always feed_ 



46 6000 LAYING HENS ON I ACRE 

tliem out in the ruinvay, and keep their water fountain out 
there too. Before putting the chicks in the machine I fill in a- 
bout 1-2 in. of Alfalfa meal in both the run and brooder for bed- 
ding and litter. Out of four different broods I raised in this 
brooder this year ] never lost a one which I could blame the 
brooder for, and I know I saved and raised several that I am 
sure would have died if I had tried to raise them with any other 
brooder I know of, or with a hen. 

In using any brooder it will not do to allow the little chicks 
to become chilled, so with the Fireless Brooder, on cold or freez- 
ing nights I used to bring my fireless brooders, filled with chicks 
into the incubator room, for fear they might become chilled, and 
out again in the morning, when the sun was up. I always want 
my chicks that comfortable that they do not crowd in the brood- 
er, or have to huddle to keep warm, so when I open a brooder 
after the chicks had been in for an hour and I find them huddling, 
I either bring them into the house or put on an extra pillow on 
the brooder. Either will remedy the trouble, so when you open 
the brooder when comfortable they will all be scattered and a- 
sleep, if you do it quietly. In the X-Ray Brooder I never have 
seen them huddle once in the four broods, and one can see the 
chicks all the time so handily, as it has glass on three sides of 
the machine. I have raised thousands of chickens with the 
Fireless Brooder, yet I believe its quite a good deal more work 
than with the X-Ray. Its a good deal like my wife says, "Its 
fun to raise chickens with th'- X-Ray, you can just see them 
grow." The only place I can find to buy the steel cut C. 
grade oats in 100 lbs. lots or in bulk is Montgomery-Ward & 
Co., Kansas City, Mo. As the chicks become older, say three or 
four weeks old, one can feed scalded mash feed, the same as 
you feed the laying stock. Also feed cracked corn and wheat 
mixed, or separately for a change. Always keep a five-pound but- 
ter crock filled with bran in the house, and to keep the chick- 
ens from scratching it out and wasting it, I cut out of 1 in. 
mesh wire, a piece to fit the inside of the jar and place on the 
top of the bran, so as fast as the chickens eat it out, this wire 
mesh would follow to the bottom. When the cockerels can be told, 
they should be separated, and raised by themselves, and if white 
birds are to be raised for show purposes, they should be kept 
from the sun. Don't feed chickens dry oats before they are four 
months old, and then its best to soak them well and drain the 
water off for a few hours before feeding. One can feed sprout- 
ed oats as much as one can get them to eat, and eat up clean, 
with good results. See "Sprouting Oats out in open ground in 
Summer." 



(UiANE'S SYSTEM 47 





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]DDDDDDDDDDDDDDnDDDDnDDCDaDDDD 




IDDDDDDDDDDnnDDDDDDnDDDDDDDDDD 



Fig. 22 

Fig. 22. This is a drawing for a plat of ground. 210 square feet. One Acre covered with my 
<3olony Chick Raising or small mating Breeding Houses, as illustrated in Fit^s. 17. IH and 19: 3x6 feet 
and 2 feet high on a 4 inch base; they are situated 4 feetapart in the row and rows 4 feet apart: thus 
Kivirg plenty of light and ventilation to every house and plenty of walk room around every house^ 
and this gives 30 rows and 21 in the low, making a total of 630 houses on the acre- One can care 
for 25 chicks to the house, until 8 weeks old. thus producing 15,700 broilers every 8 weeks or nearly 
100,000 annually. One can mature 12 birds five months old in each house; thus maturing over 15,000 
birds five months old annually on One Acre. See "Introduction of Crane's System." 

Oat Sprouting for Green Feed 



It has been a belief of mine for many years that oats sprouted 
propel ly would make the best feed possible for confined chick- 
ens to produce e^gs, and at the same time keep their bodies in a 
perfect condition, and too a great saving could be made in the 
feed bill, because oats properly sprouted will increase from six 



48 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACKE 

to eight times in . quantity, yet vrili not increase over three to 
four times in food vahie ; but even at this will give a saving of 
two-thirds to three-fourths of the feed bill. One can keep growDi 
fowls on Sprouted Oats alone with good results, yet I do not. 
recommend it as ] believe in a change in rations, therefc:e I 
give a vaiiety, as they will eat mere and can get better results. 
I recommend good Sprouted Oats first, last and all the time 
about all they will eat and eat up clean if you want the best re- 
sults, ior chicks 10 days old, to grown fowls of all kinds, yet 
don't forget the other things that they need, see subject of "Feed- 
ing Matured Fowls"; Also "Feeding Chickens". 

With this belief I commenced from the beginning by trying- 
to sprout oats, but I was not satisfied with my experirrrents so. 
I bought several other men's ideas who were using some kind 
cf a process that was for sale, for this purpose, but none that 
1 bought, entirely satisfied me, as with every process I obtained 
I found none of them practical to use to furnish 500 to 1000 birds, 
as either they would take too much time and labor to keep- 
enough on hand, or they would sour, or not grow even, or be in 
such shape as to take too much time to do the feeding. So I 
continued my experimenting and finally success crowned my ef- 
forts when I discovered "My System of Sprouting Oats". Fig. 
12 is a Photo taken of our Oat Sprouting Department using my 
System, where we furnished all the Sprouted Oats wished to feed 
over 400 head of Laying Stock and in the spring commencing- 
with February we fed sorrre 6D0 to 7G0 head cf grovring chicks 
all they wanted. Ihis took one man about 20 minrrtes night and 
morning to care for this department, and crre could feed them to 
some 60 different houses in less than 20 minutes to a feeding. So 
long as we could keep the temperature in this room between 55 
and 75 degrees above zero we would have no trouble with our 
oats sprouting, or their becoming spoiled or souring, if the oats 
we bought would germinate and j^row To make these cases or 
racks with diaws, see Figs. 13 and 14. 
Lumber and Material List for one of tht.'e lacts with draws. 

2 — 1x8x10 ft. Common Lunrber 

1 — 1x4x12 ft. Ccmmcn Lumber 

3 — 1x4x10 ft. Common Lumber 

3 — 1x2x12 ft. Ccmmon Lumber 

Two or Three Dry Goods Boxes, or Shoe Boxes that con- 
tain 1-2 inch luml)er that a:e at hast three feet long. 

1—1 Lb. 8 d. Nails. 

1 — 1 Lb. 6 d. Common Nails. 

1 — Lb. Lath Nails. 

See Fig. 13. Cut standards A. 6 pieces 5 ft. long. Take 
down Dry Goods Boxes and select 12 pieces B. 6 in. to 8 in. 
wide, cut 3 ft. long. Cut 10 pieces C. from the 1x2 in. x 12 ft.. 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



49 




Fig. 23. 

Fig. 23. This Half-tone is of Crane's Fireless Brooder, made from a jralvanized iron wash-tub' 
that can be made up to cost less than $1.00 and is as good or better than any Fireless Brocdor known, 
and I think just a little the best. See description and directions for building- under .subject, 
"Crane's Fireless Brooder," elsewhere. 



50 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

3 ft. kng. Cut 4 pieces E. from 1x4x14 ft. 25 1-2 ia. long-, and 
one 29 in. long D. and Two pieces' F. 29 in. long of the 1-2 inch 
lumber 4 in. wide. Cut two pieces Gr. from 3 to 5 ft. long 4 in. 
wide f: cm the 1-2 in. lumber. N^ow nail together. Fir&t lay three 
of the .standards A. A. A. on the floor or saw lioisos. m) the two 
outside ones are jnst three feet apart from outsidv> to outside, 
and the center one place so its front edge is 12 in. from front 
■edge of front standard. Now take a B. piece that is 6 in. wide, 
•and nail to these three standards A. A. A. even Avith the bottom 
•ends using lath nails for all 1-2 in. lumber. Novr nail another B. 
piece even with the top ends of standards A. A. A. Commencing 
with top of B. strip nailed to the bottom, space with a rule and 
"mark on both front and back standards A. A. every 11 inches 
toward the top ,and you will find 10 in. left from the last one, 
•and the to]3 of standards. Nail on the four B. strips so theii- top 
■edges are even with your marking so their top edges are all 11 
inches apart. Now nail one C. strip to B strip at the ])ottom of 
standards A. A. A. and have it just 2 in. below top of edge of B. 
strip. Take four C strips and cut notches out of what is to be 
the upper edges 1 in deep and 4 in. long, the front edge of same 
should be 12 in. from the front end of this strip, in order to drop 
the ends of E. strips into when nailed in place. Nail your 4 C. 
strips with notches to B. strips already nailed on standards A. 
A. A. using 6 d. nails so the top edges of C. is just 2 in. below the 
top edgees of B. strips on all of them. This will give you just 9 
in. between top and bottom edges of all C. strips for the draws to 
slide on You have one side finished; We will call it the right 
side. Now nail up the left side same way, but be careful, and do 
not make it just like the right, as you see from the drawing, the 
strips and runners have to be on the inside of both so they are 
nailed ^n different sides of the standard pieces A. A. A. Having 
both sides ready set them up, and nail in the 4 E. strips using 8d 
nails; also nail front top F. strip m place. You may find it a 
trifle long but that can be sawed off after it is nailed on. Meas- 
ure the distance apart at the back of the standards and see 
that it is the same as it is at E. strips, and nail G. pieces in 
place, nailing together where they cross. Now invert the rack 
and fit D. strip in place by cutting out of B. strips, notches on 
each side frame, out of bottom edge close to middle standard A. 
in front of it 2 in. deep and in width the thickness of D. strip. 
Cut notches out of D. strip two inches deep and same distance 
from the end as is equal to the thickness of A. B. C. and do 
likewise at each end and nail in place as is shown in drawing 
with 8 d. nails. This will finish the rack. See Fig. 14 and pro- 
ceed to build the draws by cutting 1-2 in. lumber enough first to 
make the sides of the draws I, which is 8 in. wide and 2 ft. long. 
For the ends H. cut 10 pieces 2 ft. long from your 1x8x10 ft. 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



51 




Fig. 24. 

Fig. 24. This Photo was talcen looking into one of my Colony Chick Raising Houses of a flock 
of 25, three weeks old, Buff Orpingtons, showing my Fireless Brooder in use on the floor side of the 
house and my Automatic Chick Water Fountain in use on the dirt side of the house. The wire 
screen on the top of the house being shoved alonji' to give a better view. 



52 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

and nail the I side pieee.s to the end pieces H. Yon can cut more 
of the 1-2 in. box lumber and make the bottoms which is cut 2 ft. 
long and nail, using 6 d. nails for these draws. Bore about 8 1-2 
in. holes in the bottom for drainage. One can put galveuized 
iron on the bottoms of these draws and let it turn up on the 
edges or !-:ides of the draw about 2 inches and nail with lath 
nails and clinch all that comes through on the inside. With a 10 
d. nail punch about a dozen holes through the iron bottom, 
h<";ving one at each coiner to drain off any surplus water, should 
you over-sprinkle them. This by far makes the best bottom that 
will never wear out but costs al cvt ^^5 cents per draw more. 
Plfice your cases in a room, or basement or incubator cellar that 
you can regulate the heat or U mp'erature and keep it between 
55 and 75 degrees above Zero, and set your cases over either a 
linoleum or cement floor, so if you sprinkle a little too heavy 
it will drip on this kind of a floor and can be kept wiped up 
handily and the room will show no sign of dampness from the oat 
grooving. This System of Oat ^'prouting is worth many times 
the cost of this book to any one if ycu have no more than a 
dozen chickens and want winter eg-gs. As this feed will produce 
the eggs, and if one has breeding stock, you cannot help but ap- 
preciate it as this feed will cavse your eggs to be fertile, if you 
have good vigerons stock and the chicks will be stronger. 

To sprout oats I figure two of these cases with a total of 
ten draws makes a set, as it takes about ten days to mature the 
oats for feeding if the room has been kept a little cool. This 
gives a draw per day which holds 2 bu. of finished feed. I use 
three No. 1 galvanized iron wash tubs in connection with each set. 
Eveiy other day I take 1-2 bu. of dry oats and soak them in one 
tub by covering with water over night in the Oat Growing room. 
In the mornmg 1 take one tub and place three bricks on end a- 
bout the edge, and take the other tub that I have punched full 
of holes with a nail and set on the bricks in the other tub. I 
now pour the soaked oats and water and all into this tub with 
the holes in the bottom and he: e I let them stand for 48 hours, 
but I stir them up every night and morning, then I divide them 
betv/cen two draAvs in the rack keeping them stirred up every 
night and morning, sprinkling them at the same time with water, 
using a common sprinkler pot. If one has water pressure at hand 
one can sprinkle with a hose having a spray nozzle. When the 
oat sprouts are about one inch long, they are the best to feed 
Baby Chicks after ten days old, but they can be kept and fed 
with good results and profit, when the sprouts are 4 in. long, to 
laying hens. They are at their best when about 2 in. long, when 
each draw will l)e full, holding 2 bu. which comes from a peck of 
good dry oats, making 8 bushels from one, costing from 4 cent* 
to 9 cents per. bushel, according to price of oats. 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



53 




- --ie illustrates the 
famous X-Ray Incubator, made by the X- 
Ray Incubator ( 'o.. of Wayne. Neb., that I 
have fullv demonstrated and tested, and hav- 
ing used many of the popular makes. I believe 
this machine is the best and the cheapest to 
run n,ade. See their Adv. in the back of this 
book, also subject 'Incubators and Brooders- elsewhere 



54 ()000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

Sprouting Oats in the Open Ground in Summer 



This is entirely my own invention, or discovery so far as I 
know. 1 soak the oats over night just as when used in the 
sprouting racks. During tlie three early months of spring, and 
late fall months, this method has proven a great success, witti no 
shade, but through the hot summer weather, I believe it can be 
done the same way by building a shade of lath overhead, and 
on the south and west sides of the j^lot of ground you wish to 
use for this purpose, by placing the lath about 1-2 in. apart. 
One might have to irrigate them in some way during long dry 
spells on account of the hot sun in this climate. 1 have not 
tried out this hot weather shade part of this yet, but I believe 
it will work alright. After selecting the place you wish to use 
for this purpose, either spade or plow the ground quite deep and 
pulverized well. Take a hoe and run trenches about S in. deep 
and 12 to 15 iii. apart, now drain the w^ater off the oats that 
have soaked over night and sow them about 1-2 in. deep in these 
trenches and cover them with about 1-2 to 1 in. deep and pat 
them down. If you will soak them 24 hours ahead of sowing, but 
draining the morning after setting them to soak, they will come 
up a day sooner. They come up very fast, and thick, raising the 
dirt with them and when they have raised the earth over them 
about an inch, or is even with the surface of the ground ])et^V('en 
the rows, I take a garden rake and take off the earth in })etween 
the rows. This M'ill leave the oats as square on top as if they 
had been sheered off like a hedge, and they will be just lidit 
to feed young chicks, by digging them with a spading fork and 
shaking the dirt out ol' the roots and by the aid of a wheel- 
barrow, I wheel to all the houses and feed in the sod. They 
should be fed to laying stock at the time they are about two in- 
ches high, but can be fed with profit when five inches longf, and 
they like them so well that they will eat them in preference to 
anything else and it makes one of the best feeds one can give 
for eggs, or conditioner. One can use the oat sproutiug hacks 
herebefore described in summer if they have a basement that can 
be kept cool, anywhere from 55 to 80 degrees above z-ero. 

Incubators and Brooders 



The question always arises with anyone when the time 
comes to buy, which shall I buy, or which is best. Right hei-e let 
me say after having more or less experience with incubators for 
over twenty years, and some years hatching 10,000 eggs, and 
after inventing and manufacturing a fireless incubator some 
twenty years ago, and making the subject a study all these 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



55 




Fig. 26. 

Fig. 26. This Photo was taken of our Etrg- Department, showing- how we store Eggs for 
Hatching.or otherwise: using the Star Egg t'.urier & Tray Mfy. Cos.. cases, that holds twelve dozen 
each. Each case has twelve Cartoons that holds one dozen each, and the egtis stand on end. so by 
turning the case end for end. it turns the eggs all at once. See subject "Storing Eggs for Hatch- 
ing," elsewhere; also Star Egg Carrier & Tray Mftr. Co's., Adv, in the back part of this book. 



56 GOOU LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

years. I am delighted upon finding on the market what I terai 
an Ideal Incubator, -which is a pleasure to operate; While I 
consider the same time there are many good standard incubators 
on the market; I have nothing to say against them, and many 
of tl'.''in are good, yet taking all in all, everything considered, 
I consider my favorite has many advantages. 

'i herefore I am using the X-Ray Incubator, the machine with 
the Glass Top, as manufactured by the X-Ray Incubator Com- 
pany of Wayne, Neb. 

This machine ] find after miming it several times comes the 
nearest to perfection, and is the easiest regulated, and the cheap- 
est running, at the same time giving the best results, and is 
far superior to any machine that I have ever looked over or used. 

The arjangement of air circulation, the caring for the 
chicks until ready to take away form the machine, is simply 
ideal in this machine, and the advantage of having every egg 
in plaii] N'iew at all times has a great advantage at hatching 
time, as one can see w^hat to do, and when to do it, and enabels 
one to get a strong healthy chick from nearly every good egg, 
and the Automatic Regulator by cutting off the blaze of the 
lamp thus stopping the flow of heat as .well as saves the fuel, 
making it positive in regulation, and cheap' in operating. 

I el tcu leave the City for a day at a time, and I always 
know tile machines are doing their duty just the same, and the 
gettirjg lip of nights to look after them is all unnecessary. I 
never had it to do with the X-Ray ,as the automatic trip is 
bound to cut off the blaze before the machine overheats the 
eggs, after the machine is once regulated. 

Directions for running this ircubator will be found with this 
machine, as well as with all other makes, and it is best to follow 
the rules laid down by each manufacturer generally, and you 
will be near the right track. Yet I will add a few useful hints 
practiced by many old experienced incubator users that will not 
be fount! in any of the manufacturers' directions, and wil] save 
you the c ost of this book on nearly evei\y hatch you undertake. 

Fiist, sel( ct your eggs for the incubator and place them 
in the t!ay or trays so that the small end of the egg points down 
waid slightly, and arrange the egg in rows so they fit closely, 
and you will get more into the tray until the first test, which I 
usually do on the 5th. or 7th. day. The white egg the 5th. day, 
and the dark egg the 7th. day. 

Usu.allj^ you will find a few unfertile eggs, which you take 
out, giving more room in the tray. But save these unfertile eggs 
to hard boil for the little chicks' first food, and feed some until 
a few days old. 

Second, after eggs are all iu the tray, take a dish of water 
about the same temperatui'e of the eggs and sprinkle them well 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



57 




Fig. 27. 

Fi^ 27. This drawi.^ represents a Chart for line-breedins:. whereby one can Pr-d'.ce practi- 
cally two new strains from a sin.le mating or pen in three, or five .enerat.ons. See subject. Lme 
Breeding." elsewhere. 



with the fingers as a lady does the clothes she is about to non 
and immediately place tray in the incubator that you have already 
heated up and 'regulated ready to receive the eggs. J^ggs less 



58 (iOOO LAYING HENS ON 1 ACHE 

than tJiioe days old do not require tliis. 

Third, on the 10th. day of the hatch take a large pan with 
water about 2 1-2 in. deep, heat to a temperature of 98 to 104 de- 
grees, and place all the eggs in this water and let remain for 
one to two minutes and return to machine at once wet, and close 
up machine tjuickly. Repeat this on the 18th. day. When you 
first discover eggs jiiping see your sand in moisture pans under 
the tray is good and w^et, close the machine and keep it closed 
until all chichs are hatched, or due to he hatched, never opening 
the machine: unless you see that they are coming too slow on ac- 
count of being too dry and in such case have a dish of hot 
water ready and some woolen clothes, open the machine quickly, 
wring flannels out of hot water as hot as you can handle, lay 
over the eggs, ehicks just coming, and just out and all. close 
the machine quickly and leave twenty minutes: then open the 
machine as little as possible and draw out the flannels and close 
the machine quickly, and cover the glass if in an X-Ray machine 
with papers or pads ,being careful not to cover the vent holes on 
the top of cover oT the machine at the corners; this you will find 
will assist the balance of the hatch and the chicks will all come 
out nicely if they have not been neglected too long. 

Now in the X-Ray machine when the chicks are all hatched, 
or you think they are through you can remove the tray, chicks 
shells, and all and place the chicks in the bottom of the machine, 
close down the cover and run the machine about the same as for 
hatching, and leave the chicks here for the first thirty-six to 
forty eight hours Avithout feeding or water, when they will 
come out of the machine fully ripe, ready to eat, drink, and are 
strong ready to battle for life in this world. 

If you \vill follow the rules laid down by your Incubator 
and these useful hints you will hatch every strong useful chick 
and raise it too, if fed, watered and ]u)used properlv. 

BROODERS. 

They are Iavo kinds — Heated and Fireless. Of late years the 
Fireless Brooders have come into prominence to a great extent, 
as it has been difficult to get a Brooder that -would be self-reg- 
ulating at all times, when chicl<s were in, or out of it. It was 
on this account that I invented my AVashtub Fireless Brooder, as 
is illustrated herein, in Figs. 23, 24 and 40, and for description, 
and directions to build see "Fireless Brooders" I have used this 
Fireless Broodei- for three years, and until this year have used 
nothing else, and we have had tlie Ix'st of success; but on account 
of tile exti-a time involved in Brooder breaking the chicks, I 
tried tlie X-Ray Heated Brooder, as it was claimed to be self-reg- 
ulating at all times, and I must say that I was very much pleas- 
ed with it. I run four broods with it, and never lost a chick 
from broodei- causes. The thr(M' first broods were kept in the 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



59 



Incubator Room with the run 
facing a window, and the last, I 
set the Brooder in one of my 
Chick Raising Houses. I have 
the large size Brooder and it just 
fit the west end on the galvan- 
ized iron floor and I let the run 
down on the dirt in the east end 
through the day, and after the 
chicks were a week old, I set an- 
other of my houses, so its west 
end met the east end of the one 
that had the brooder in, and 
took out the end panels where 
they joined and hooked the two 
houses together, so the chicks 
had both houses to run in. In 
a double house of this kind 
which covers a space of 3x12 ft. 
I raised 50 chicks until they got 
too large for. the brooder, then 
I took out the brooder: but the 
latter half of this time I used no 
fire in the brooder at all. I 
never had to show a chick the 
way in; They seemed to know 
where to go as they needed 
w^armth from the moment they 
were put in the brooder. I put 
alfalfa meal on the floor of the 
brooder, and would scatter steel 
cut oat meal on this daily, and 
they would work scratching for 
it l)y the hour, as it is as light 
as da}' in the brooder, and just 
the required temperature, as the 
automatic regulator cuts the 
lamp blaze off the moment it 
gets a degree too warm. I con- 
sider it a pleasure to raise chick- 
ens with an X-Ray Brooder, as 
they seem to grow better, and do 
better, and I believe a chick 
that cannot be raised in this 
brooder should not be raised. 



2 =^ 

s E 3 


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\/ 


. 2K This 
flakes, of pi 
lives. 


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n;!;' 


3 S- 


\l7 


xir 


3 " 


xl/ 


\lr 


■a H' 


Sir 


\y 


1 = 

6 St 

■ :^ 


x|/ 


xl/ 


Fig. 28. 

;nt ways to toe-mark your littl 
unching the toes when a day oi 








^ 


^ 


a. ■~ 

3- 
3 5 


x/ 


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13 r 

5' s 

a ft 


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^ 


s; n 
i ■°. 

m 3 
— «) 

C " 

3 -3 


\1/ 


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n ft 
r.' 


Ni/ 


\l/ 


S 3- 

»J ft 

3 

ft' 


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1% 
a. ft 


\U 


-]/ 



60 GOOO LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

CRANE'S FIRELESS BROODER. 

See Fig. 23, also Figs. 24 autl -iO. I inveuted this Fireless 
Brooder after using others to my sorrow, and not until I devis- 
ed this one was 1 satisfied with a fireless brooder. 1 now believe 
so far as this southern country is concerned this Fireless Brood- 
er is a success if used right. For three years we have used prac- 
tically nothing else, as 1 never saw until this year a heated 
Brooder that 1 -would use, see "Incubators and Brooders''. To 
make my Fireless Brooder take a No. 1 galvanized iron wash 
tub, cut a 4 inch hole in the side about one inch from the bottom 
of the tub. Cut a paper lining for the tub 6 in. wide and 6ft. 
long, (from corrugated paste-board makes the best) otherwise 
any good stiff heavy paper will do, and lap the ends, and place 
in the tub and adjust so the bottom edge fits closely to the 
tub and sew secure, cut hole through this lining opposite hole in 
the tul). Cut from a piece of tin, a piece 6 in. wide and 8 in. 
long, curve the shape of the tub inside for a door to slide be- 
tween tlie liniug and the tub. Cut from one end in order to 
turn up a piece in the center for a handle, and punch a few 
holes in the center, where the center comes when the door is in 
place and closed. Take heavy pail bail wire and make a hoop 
like what you see lying in the tub in Fig. 23. drawing both 
ends through a small harness ring, and ])end handles in shape 
as you see in the cut, so when the hooj) is let out, and handles 
strike the ring, it will just fit the top of the tul). Now fit and 
sew a good grade of muslin cloth to this hoop so that its center 
will sag about two inches lower in the center than the edges 
when the hoop is at the top of the tub. By pulling on the hand- 
les the hoop becomes smaller and can be placed in the bottom 
of the tub, or to the top of the lining and when there the center 
of the cloth on the hoop will about touch the bottom of the nest. 
You will find that this hoop is now adjusted to any position in 
the tub, and easy to manipulate. Make pillow by cutting out 
two cloths for the top and bottom of the pillow the size of the 
top of the tub, and cut a strip two inches wide for a boxing, sew 
it on the bottgni and fill with the poorest grade of batting and 
sew intop and your Brooder is made. Empty out everything 
inside and set tub over a folded newspaper as large as the bot- 
tom of the tub and mark around with a pencil, cut out all the 
thickness and place all in the bottom of the tub, place in lining 
and door, now fill in the bottom about 1-2 in. of alfalfa meal, I 
like best, but chaff or real fine hay can l)e used for bedding, and 
it is ready for the little babies. To clean, take out ])illow, hoop 
and paper lining and door, now take hold of one thickness of the 
newspaper in the bottom under the nesting, with the tub on its 
side you can easily turn out all nesting dirt all at one motion, 
when you replace paper lining put jn more nesting and the 



(^KANE'S SYSTEM 



61 




Fig. 29. 




Fig. 30. 

Fig-s. 26 and 3(1. These Photos were taken of some of my Large Laying- Houses, otherwise illustrated 
as Figures 5, 6, 7. 8 and 9. showing the south and east view, and south and west view. At this time I was 
watering the fowls by means of an inverted jug over a galvanized iron trough that extended into the hous* 
from the west end, the jug being on the outside of the house. I found I could not keep the j ig cleen and 
sanitary easily, so have tried out the one gallon milk crock on the east end, and found it very much better 
as shown in Figures 4 and 5. 



62 6000 LAYING HENS ON I ACKE 

Brooder is ready i'or use again. When through with them, clean 
out, place pillow in the bottom, droj) hoop onto it, and if you 
have several to put away, treat them all like this, and then set 
them in each other stacking them, and turn them all upside 
down out of doors, or anywhere and they will keep dry, and will 
be ready when wanted again, without damage. This brooder can 
be gotten up for less than a Dollar, and is the best Fireless 
Brooder I know of today, at any price. It will accomodate 40 to 
50 baby chicks until two wrecks old, when not over 25 should be 
kept in until 5 weeks old, when the number should be cut down 
to 15. This number you can keep in it as long as they can use 
it, if they are well cared for. 

Crane's Automatic Dry Mash Hopper 



See Fig. 15 Letters A. B. C. D. E. F. and G. This Hopper 
is made from plain galvanized iron, and resembles a stove pipe 
and elbow, to hold Dry Mash, and when placed, so the elbow or 
mouth piece, part is inside of my large Laying House ,and the 
pipe part outside the house ; the hens can help themselves at 
anytime, and the mash in the hopper will automatictlly feed 
down as fast as the hens eat it out of the mouth piece, on ac- 
count of the lower end being the largest. This Hopper is very 
handy to fill, being on the outside of the house, and when prop- 
erly made will not choke. It being made of galvanized iron with 
a cap makes it rain proof. The size I will give here will hold 
nearly a bushel ; but can be made to any desired size. This size 
is what I use on my large Laying Houses. I cut a hole through 
the three ply roofing next to the base in the west end frame so 
the front is within one foot of the front edge of the house the 
! jse of the elbow 7 in. in meter, and shove the mouth of 

hopper through this hole. Using a stove pipe wire, or bailing 
wire, wire it to the house at the upper end. Any tin shop will 
make them for you giving them dimentions and showing them 
this cut. Fig. 15 letter C. is a pipe 2 feet long and 6 inches in 
diameter at the top and 7 inches at the bottom. Letter A is 
a cap made to fit over C. with B. as a handle ; this cap 
to be removed when filling. This drawing is not quite 
correct, as D. elbow is made of three pieces 7 inches in dia- 
meter, and made to go over C. and solder to it. To make 
the mouth, cut out the upper half of the front of D. 2 1-2 in. 
deep, leaving one inch on either side, to turn in to from lip' F. F. 
Cut end piece E. with an inch to turn in on top to form lip F. 
and solder to D. This lip F. F. F. is to prevent chickens from 
throwing out mash while digging in the mouth of the hopper to 
see what they can find. Now cut throat piece G. to fit in close- 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



63 




Fig. 31. 







Fig. 32. 

Figs. 31 and .■?2 These Photos were taken of a portion of my Colony. Chick Raising-, Houses, as shown 
elsewhere as Figurers 17, 18 and 19, in hot weather with the covers partly raised to exclude the hot rays of 
the sun. We find by having the open screens over the chicks, with a canvas front to the house and a well 
pulverized earth in one-half of the house, and the covers at this angle, the chicks keep very comfortable in 
hot weather. We have lost very few chicks with heat, and in July and August it often reaches 108 degrees 
in the shade. 



64 (iOOO LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

ly iu the first seam of the ell)OW, and cut out a portion of the 
lower 1-2 for the mash to feed through, but contrary to the draw- 
ing should curve down instead of up. A good way to measure 
this cut in the throat piece G. the top edge at sides of the cut 
should be 1 in. below lips F. F. and in center should be 1 1-2 in. 
lower than lip F. If this throat piece G. is cut out to large the 
hens will throw out mash faster than they will eat, therefore 
wasting it, and of course if not cut enough they will not be able 
to work it down, as the mash will choke at the sides of the 
throat piece G, but when cut right it will work fine, and 
waste none. This makes a Yeiy handy way of feeding dry mash. 
In price, here I have to pay $1.25 for one made at a time but. 
they offer to make six for $5.00. 

Crane's Automatic Water Fountain 



See Fig. 16. This fountain is made by using a common glass, 
milk bottle, the one quart being the best size to use, and a gal- 
venized iron cup. One can have made at any tin shop with at- 
tachment for little baby chicks. E. being the bottle, F. the cup 
when in position for use as cut G. represents. Cut C. repre- 
sents the cup A. B. B. is made 4 in. in diameter with a rim 1 in. 
high. A. is in size the diameter of the throat of a common milk 
bottle, so it will slide in the bottle with some friction, but not tight, 
enough to bind and break the' bottle, and is 2 1-2 in. in height 
with an enlarged ring turned in it 3-4 in. from its bottom end to 
prevent bottle going to the bottom of cup, after V shaped holes 
are cut out of the two opposite sides on the bottom end and a 
1-1 in. flange is turned up at right angles to the body to solder 
sr.bstantially to the center of inside of cup B. Fill the bottle 
v/ith water, place tube A. of cup C. in the bottle and invert it, 
when the water will come out in cup until it is just even with 
the ond of bottle and stops, as no more air can get in to let water 
out, until some has been removed from the cup. For Baby Chicks 
1 make from galvanized iron, chick attachment D. It is 4 in. in 
diameter to fit inside of cup. Cutting hole in center the size of 
tube A. so it will slide on over it. Cut V shaped openings 3-4 
in. deep around outer edge, but do not cut out the metal, leave 
the V point connected to D. and turn down at right angles under 
it to rest on the bottom of cup. To use it, fill bottle as before, 
place D. over A. in cup C. Now place cup inverted in bottle 
then invert it all and it will be ready to use. You will find this 
very nice for Baby Chicks, as they can get all the good clean 
water they want, and they cannot get wet. I get my cups made 
here for $3.00 per two dozen at a time, and in smaller quantities 
at the rate of 15 cents each. See Fig. 24 where one is in use, 
but attachment D. has been discarded at this time as the chicka. 
were three weeks old. 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



65 




Fig. 33. 

Fig:. 33. This Half-tone was made from a poor Photo take if our famous Prize-Winning S. C. 
Buff Orpington Hen. E.xhibited three times in 1911 and winning two Firsls and one Second Prizes 



Feeding Trough for Large Laying House 



See Fig. 16 illustration J. letters 1, 1, 1, and H, also Figs. 
5, 7, and 9. letter B. Fig. 9. Cut plain galvanized iron 5ft. long 
ond 9 1-2, in. wide H. With a mallet over the sharp edge of a 
2x4 in. piece (hard wood is best) turn over and pound down 1-4 
in. on each edge the whole length, this will stiffen it, and 
make a smoother edge. In the same way bend it through 
shape, with edge seam outside of trough through the mid- 
dle. Cut three I. pieces from 1 in. lumber three cornered 4 in. 
across the top and 3 in. from the top to the point in the bottom. 
Nail these inside of the trough shaped iron H. using lath nails, 
one in each end and one in center. Punch two holes in the bot- 
tom V of trough ]2 in. from each end, large enough to pass 
the head of a 6d. finishing nail through. To place feed trough 
in place, drive two 6d. finish nails in the center of bottom edge 
of opening in lower front panel of laying house to correspond to 
the two holes in bottom of feed trough, leaving about 3-8 in. 



66 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

of nail out. Take trough, holding it upright and in.seit it in the 
opening in the panel the whole length, when if your nails are 
not too high, they can be entered through the holes made in 
the bottom of the trough; where they will act as a hinge to let 
the trough tilt forward to. receive the feed, or backward to 
allow the chickens to eat. 

Feeding Trough for Colony Chick Raising or for 
Small Mating Breeding House 



See Fig. 16. illustration L. also Fig. 19. It is made from 
plain galvanized Iron, and can be made by any tin shop. Usual- 
ly I make them about 18 in. long 2 in. wide at top of cup and 
1 in. in the bottom, and can be made shorter on the bottom so 
they will nest together. ^lake two holes in the back piece to 
hang on nails, and they ought to be made for at most 25 cents 
each. 1 drive two nails on the east end of the small house to 
hang the trough on, and I rgulate the height according to the 
size of chickens 1 have in the house to feed, as the nails can be 
driven at any height, one on the center strip, and the other on the 
end strip in the end panel. These troughs can be used for 
water also if one chooses to. 

Oil Cups for Mite Proof Roosts 



See Fig. 16 illustration K; also Fig. 21 letter D. This cup' is 
made of plain galvanized iron 3 in. in diameter, and 1 inch deep. 
The rim and center tube are the same height, 1 in. and are sol- 
dered to the bottom. The center tube being a large 3-8 in. in 
diam.eter so a 3-8 inch iron rod can pass up through it easily. 
This center tube is set in a hole in the center of bottom, and 
soldered to it, oil proof, so the roost bracket can be passed up 
through this tube, and a block drove on after it tight to hold 
cup in place. When cup is in place, putty up the space between 
iron rod, and inside of center tube, so no mites can go between 
them. With oil in the cups all mites in trying to reach the 
roost will have to pass through this cup, and they are stopped 
or caught in the oil. These cups can be made at any tin shop 
at about 12 1-2 cents each. It takes 4 for each set of roosts, aa 
you can see by Fig. 21. 

Storing Eggs for Hatching, or Market 



Pig. 26 is made from a Photograph of our Egg Department, 
where we store our eggs for hatching, to fill orders, or incubate 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



67 




Fig. 34. 

Pig. 34. This Half-tone was made from a Ptoto of our famous S. C. Black Orpington Cock 
"Buster" that used to weiyh 161bs.. and likely won more First Prijes than any bird in the State, but 
'died in 1911 by injury. 



in our own hatchery. We use Cases manufactured by the Star 
Egg Carrier & Tray Mfg. Co. of Rochester, N. Y. they call them 
"Farmers Modern Egg Crate'". We use their size 12, which holds 
12 cartoons of one dozen eggs each. We place the eggs in these 
Cartoons from the nest marking each cartoon the No. of the house 
■mating, and when crate is full we mark the crate with the date, 
so we can always go to our crates to fill an order and tell at a 
glance what mating the eggs was from, and the date it was laid. 
These crates are simply kept on end; we daily turn the crates 
end for end ; thus all eggs are turned without handling at one 
motion, and always are left standing on end. We also leave the 
cartoon covers off so to allow the air to circulate freely be- 
tween the cartoons, and the eggs ; thus giving them plenty of 
fresh air at all times, and no two eggs are touching each other. 
In this way we can keep our eggs for hatching for a month, and 
they will hatch nearly as well as fresher eggs, when kept in a 
well aired room at a temperature, say about 50 to 70 degrees. 
These cartoon Egg Cases arealso very useful and convenient 
ito carry or deliver eggs in, to a customer, or to market, as they 



68 (iOOO LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

insiiii' no loss by breakage and a snie count, and are so easily 
handled and emptied. The cost of them are very reasonable and 
something eveiy egg producer should have. 

This Company also manufactures some of the best and saf- 
est "Egg-for-Hatching"" shipping cases that is on the market.. 

See their Advertisement in the back part of this Book. 

Portable Roost and Dropping Board 



See Fig. 2U, Lettered A. B. C. D. This is made for use in: 
my Chick Kaising or Small Mating Breeding Plouse. It acts. 
both as roost and dropping l)oard ,so it can easily be handled 
in cleaning eveiy morning. 1 leave it out of the house all day, 
out of the chickens way, and replace at evening just before the 
chickens go to roost. It is made from 1x2 in. strips, and a sheet 
of plain galvanized iron 18x80 inches and nailed with 6d com- 
mon nails, and lath nails for the iron. Cut two C. pieces 18 in. 
long, from the strip luml)er ; also two B. pieces 32 in. long. Cut 
two D. pieces 4 in. long. Cut one E. piece -VS in. long. Place iron 
on the two side pieces B. which is two inches longer than the 
iron, but divide this by leaving 1 inch at each end. Now place 
C. end strips in place and nail all coiners through C. iron and B> 
Nail D. strips on inside of C. in center. Nail E. on top end of D. 
strips, and your roost is ready. You will find it easy to clean, 
will not draw moisture from the droppings, and very convenient 
and, if cleaned off daily, will aid much in keeping the house- 
clean. 

Portable Mite- Proof Roosts 



See Fig. 21, lettered A. B. C. D. E, also Fi.g 9 where roost 
is in place in the house. This roost I invented especially for my 
large Laying house, and I have been very much pleased with 
the results since I have had it in use the last three years. We 
have never seen a mite in the plant. You will see from Fig. 21 
that its simply constructed of four 3-8 in. iron rod brackets, 
that hang in screw-eyes with eyes that will fit nicely the 3-8 in. 
iron rod brackets that slip into them. Oil cups on these iron 
brackets, and 1x2 in. strips for roosts. As all measurements are 
given in the cut it will not be neccessary for me to repeat here. 
I usually take 1x2x2 in. blocks and boie 3-8 in. hole in center 
place on under the cups and tighten in place with small nail 
driven from under side between the iion lod and the block, to 
hold cups in place To place in house put two screw-eyes in 
inside back panel Y. Fig. 9 one above the other about 3 in. apart, 
to receive a bracket, so it will suppoit the roost, AA^hen on the- 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 



69 




^. 



Fig 35. 



Fig. 35. This Half-tone is from a Photo of our much admired. S. C. Black Orpington Cock* 
'King Night," which has been valued at $.iO(».00. and won First over ""Buster" at the E.O.P.A. 
Show at Tulsa. 1910; being the first time •'Buster " was ever beaten. 



70 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

bracket 6 in. above the second floor, and about 9 in. from the- 
west end frame of the house; place another set of screw-eyes 
13 in. from the other set, for the other bracket, east of it. Place 
the strips A. and B. on all four Brackets and set north brackets 
in screw-eyes you have placed and raise south brackets up to 
the south half of roof when you can easily see where to set the 
Screw-eyes, for the two south brackets to hang in, and have them 
spring into them. When set and hung so the roost is 6 inches 
from second floor the whole length, and about 9 in. from west 
end of the house, fill oil cups with ciude oil, or a mixture of 
1-2 lard and 1-2 kerosene. See that the joint around the bracket 
rod and the center tube of oil cup is packed well with j)utty,. 
when your roost will be ready for use. 

Line Breeding 



Line Breeding Chait see Fig. 27. This is the method used 
by nearly all of our best breeders to perpetuate their strain, or 
to produce new strains. One should start with as fine specimens 
as possible. One can start from one male and one female, or 
one male and seveial females, and use this chart just the same. 
This chart is very similar to what I have seen published, called 
Felch's Chart; but of the two charts that I have seen, neither 
was correct. This chart will figure out as is marked and des- 
cribed below. This line breeding one seldom sees explained in 
Poultry papers for some reason, that 1 do not know, and until 
recently I never have seen a chart published and exlplained in 
a Poultry Paper. 1 find very few indeed that understand how 
it is done, especially after second year's mating; therefore most 
everybody buys a ncAv cock to mate up with their hens, every 
year or two to keep from running down their flock by in- 
breeding. This is a great mistake, as no one can tell what the 
cross of two strains will produce in type, markings of feathers,^ 
or how good they will be as egg' prcduceis, even if the new cock 
is well bred and a fine specimen of the same breed as females. 
But all high grade well bred strains have been produced mostly 
by following out some system of line breeding, and this chart 
will give you, 1 believe, the best system of line breeding known 
today. By this chart you can pioduce practically two new 
strains in three, or five years. First year, mating pens 1 and 2, 
you will produce pen 3, 1-2 blood of each father and mother. 
Second year mate Mothers pen 1, to the l)est son of pen 3 which 
is 1-2 mothers blood, and this will gi\c vcu pen 4, 3-4 mothers 
blood, and 1-4 fathers blood; also same year mate father from 
pen 2, to daughters from pen 3, and you will get pen 5, 3-4 blood 
of the father and onlv 1-4 mothers blood. Third vear mate the 



CRANE'S 8YSTE:m 



71 




Fig. 36. 

Fig. 36. This Half-tone is made from a Photo of the State Famous S. C. Black Orpington 
Cockerel we raised in 1911. Winning: First at State Fair at Oklahoma City in September. First 
at E: O- P; A. Show at Tulsa, in Januar.v. 1912; also winning First and the Special A. P. A. $20.00 
Gold Medal Prize at Muskojjee in Januar.v 1912. and a valuation of $5lX).00 placed upon him by 
the Judges. The owner of this bird at the time he was shown and won the A. P. A. $20 00 Gold 
Medal, was not a member of the A. P. A., therefore, the Metal was with-held and was given to 
the owner of the next best bird in the show, who was a member of the A. P. A. Moral: Join the 
American Poultr.v Association hefere the next State Show. 



72 (iUUU LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

best grands(.u from pen -i. to g; nd inotlieis pen 1, and yon get 
pen 6, 7-8 mothers blood, and !-!■ fatheis blood only, making prac- 
tically a new strain of the motheis blocd separated fiom the 
fathers; also mate the grandfather from pen 2, to granddaugh- 
ters of pen 5, and you will get pen 8. 7-8 fatheis l)lood, and 
only 1-8 mothers blood left, this gives practically another new 
stiain of the fatheis blood sej^arated from the mothers; also 
mate best male f i om pen 5, which is o-4 fathers blood to fe- 
males from pen 4, which is 3-4 mothers bleed and vou will get 
pen 7, 1-2 blocd of both father and mother. Now you can start 
over again using either pen 6 or 8. and follow out the chart 
from the beginning for the next three years, or continue by this 
chart for two years more by mating the fourth year a 3-4 
mothers blood male from pen 4, to 7-8 mothers l)lood females 
from pen 6, and get pen 9, which is 13-16 mothers blood and 
3-16 fatheis blood; also mate 7-8 fathers blood male from pen 
8 to the 3-4 fathers blood females from pen 5, and you get pen 
13, 13-16 fathers blood and only 3-16 mothers blood; also mate 
male 7-8 fathers blood from pen 8, to 1-2 fathers blood females 
from pen 7, you will get pen 12, 11-16 fathers blood and 5-16 
motheis blood; also mate male 1-2 mothers blood from pen 7, 
to 7-8 mothers blood females from pen 6, you will get pen 10, 
11-16 mothers blood, and 5-16 fatheis blocd; also mate male 7-8 
fathers blood from pen 8, to 7-8 mothers blood females from poii 
6 and you will get pen 11, 1-2 blood of both father and mother 
you started with. The fifth year you can mate 13-16 mothers 
blood females from pen 9, to a 1-2 mothers blood male from pen 1} 
and 3'ou will get pen 14, 21-32 mothers blood, making practical- 
ly a new strain. Also mate a 13-16 fathers blood male from pen 13, 
to 1-2 fathers blood females from pen 11, and you will get pen 
18, 21-32 fathers blood, practically another new strain of the 
fathers blood. You can also mate 13-16 fathers blood male from 
pen 13, to 5-16 fathers blood, and 11-16 mothers blood fiMnales 
from pen 10, and you will get pen 17, 9-16 fathers blood; also 
mate male from pen 12. which is 11-16 fatheis blood, and 5-16 
mothers blood to 13-16 mothers blood females from pen 9, and 
you will get pen 15, 9-16 mothers blood; also mate 11-16 fathei's 
blnod male from pen 12, to the 11-16 mothers blood females from 
pen 10, and you will get pen 16, 1-2 fathers and mothers blood you 
started with from pens 1 and 2. So you see at the end of five 
years you have not inbred closer than 1-2 bloods, and have two 
pens that represents the fathers and motheis bh)od separated, 
giving you two separate strains from the birds you started with, 
and if you have been careful in selecting your breeders all these 
five years you should have improved your birds as well as 
kept up their vigor. This eliart ard explanation alone is worth 
maii>' tiiiK s the value of tliis bet ] t< these wb(» d > n>t know 



CKANE'8 SYSTK.Al 



73 




F:g a 




Fig. 38. 

Fiys. 37 and :?8. These Half-tones ;ire from Photos t.iken of Portions of our Plant in 
February. 1912, after a heavy snow storm, the snow remaining several days, which shows my 
System in use in the snow. We tiot our largest ega yield the day these photos were taUen dur- 
ing the winter up to this time. 



74 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

how to line breed. Always breed from 3' our best layers, and 
use the American Standard of Perfection as your guide for 
selecting your best specimens from 3'our best layers for your 
breeders, then follow this chart and 3'ou are safe. 

Poultry Diseases 



I am not going into full detail and make this liook a doctor 
book for the sick chickens, but 1 will point out ways to keep 
poultry healthy, by use of my System of feeding and housing. 
Yet no matter how sanitaiy one may keep the houses and birds, 
one will have some sickness, caused mostly by severe changes in 
weather. This causes more of the sickness we have than all other 
causes combined. In fact it is our only cause of sickness with 
my "System", when the foAvls are caied for properly. For a good 
book on Disease and Remedies, I will refer you to G. E. Conkey 
& Co., Cleveland, Ohio. They publish a disease book, entitled 
"Poultry Diseases" — "A Handy Book of reference for Poultry 
Men'', and 1 think that they will mail you one, or refer you to 
some poultiy sui)ply dealer who will give you one. This book 
describes each disease, and gives a remedy of their manufacture. 
We are using some of these remedies and like them very much, 
especially their roup, Bronchitics, and Healing Salve. 1 Ix'lieve 
the other remedies are just as good, yet we have not had occa- 
sion to use them much. We use in addition to the above mention 
ed remedies, otheis of my own, that have proven very success- 
ful, and you will find them very cheap to get up. 

SYSTEM BUILDER AND CLEANSER 

I use quite a little Red Venitian, or Mineral Paint Powder, 
by mixing with brand mash with boiling water, in which I dis- 
solve enough red venitian to make a stilf dough, quite red. 
This I feed at least twice a month or once a week will do no 
harm, 10 both growing chicks and laying stock. This tends to 
cleanse the system like charcoal, and will cause egg production 
from an increase circulation of bleed and their combs will be 
red and rosy, keeping them in the piul; of conditiou. 

CHOLERA OR BOWEL TROUBLE 

1 give a tal)lcsi)0()nful of Ei)soui Salts to two ([uarts of 
water in their drinking water foi- a dfiy or two, and kecpinu' all 
other water away from them, l^'oi- indixidual dose, give one- 
half teaspoonful dissolved in hot water. 'Ihis is a good thing to 
give lor mcst any disease along with other me<^lieines, ;is it will 
assist to cast off the disease germs. 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 




Fig. 40. 

This Photo shows Cranes Fireless Brooder with its till of little ones out on the lawn. 



76 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

CROP BOUND 

I give a tablespoonful of castor oil and kneed the crop soft, 
and thoroughly mixed with the oil. Repeat every six hours until 
crop is empty, keeping all food away from the first. After the 
crop is empty commence to feed lightly for a day or two. 

COLDS, OK RUNNLNG AT NOSTRILS 

I apply Conkeys ROUP (U'RE POWDER, using a little on 
the flat end of a tooth-pick, and tip it into entrance of nostril, 
after cleaning the opening, and let the fowl breathe it into its 
head. Also use it in the drinking water as directed on the box. 
Usually one or two applications on the nostrils will remedy the 
case, It not of too long standing. 

SORE EYES 

Besides Murine Eye water, I use the Nitrate of Silver solu- 
tion given below for Swelled Head, and if taken in the early 

stages it will cure nearly all cases. 

CANKER SORE MOUTH 

I use Carbolic Acid, applying with a small camel hair brush 
to the cnaker spots after removing all the puss or canker that 
I can with a pair of tweezers. This will burn out and kill the 
canker growth, and when killed, apply an application or two of 
sweet oil to help heal the sore. 

SWELLED HEAD 

Where an absess gathers between the eye and nostril after it 
has assumed quite large proportions I lance the swelling quite 
deep, and try to force out the puss if ripe, but sometimes the 
gathering is not far enough along, only to bleed very profusely. 
I have plenty of cotton and a pair of tweezeis handy to absorb 
the blood, and use the tweezers with a small piece of cotton 
twisted on the points very close as a swab. I soak in carbolic 
<acid and burn out the opening I made in lancing, being careful 
not to get any on tiie outside of face or in the eye. A few ap- 
plications will tend to cure this puss growth, and when killed 
cither use Conkey's Healing Salve or Carbolated Vaseline to 
heal it. This will often heal it up so well that it will never be 
discovered if one will attend to it soon after the start. This 
comes from a cold, stopping the nostril and puss forming, and if 
not stopped in time will result in loosing the eye, or the chick- 
en. The best thing to use for this disease, if it is noticed in time, 
is an application three times daily of a solution of 40 grians of 
Nitrate of Silvci- to one pint of water, shake well l)efoi*e using 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 77 

being careful not to wet the feathers oir white l»ii(ls as it will 
tan the feathers Buff or brown, and cannot be removed without 
removiHg the feathers. I have rised this foirnula with marked 
snccess if the case is taken irr the early stages. Yon will find 
this a very valuable formula for this trouble, it will tan ones 
finger nails some, but will wear off in time. It should be ap- 
plied direct to the eye as well as the sun-ourrding paits, but is 
not intended for internal use. 

GAPE WORMS OR THROAT AND LUNG TROUBLES 

Swab the throat with a tail or wing feather soaked in a so- 
lirtion of 1-2 Coal Oil and 1-2 Turpentine , or pure Turpentine, 
running the feather clear to the ciop, twisting it several 
times, using tw^o or three feathers separately at the application, 
and usually a few applicatiorrs will produce a remedy. 

BUMBLE FOOT 

Lance swellirrg, clean out all puss, and burn orrt with car- 
bolic acid, wraj) up well with barrdage and sew, so fowl cannot 
pick off, and .^oak with Turpentine, in a di\y or two redress, 
using Conkey's Healing Salve o:" Carbolated Vaseline, aird ban- 
dage dry as before. 

LEG WEAKNESS 

Take an apple box, tack a piece of canvas across the top so it 
will sag in the center, with two holes in the canvas for the 
chickens legs, so when the chicken is iir place, it can touch the 
floor with its feet if it tried, keep a can of water in front where 
the chickens can reach it, and feed good stroirg food, and in a 
few days to two weeks will usually cure them so they will begin 
to walk, and soon be entirely over it. 

CHICKEN POX OR SORE HEAD 

I seldom do much of anything, unless I wish to exhibit a 
bird in a show, and had it entered before it broke out; then I 
-use, to kill the sores, and remove the scabs, equal parts of grain 
alcohol and sweet oil, and to an ounce of this I will add about ten 
drops of carbolic acid and apply about three times daily and 
rub in the comb and wattles well, two or three days usually will 
put them in quite presentable shape; but if one will use three 
drops of carbolic acid to the quart of water for the drinking 
water, and Epsom Salts twice a month, one tablespoonfrrl to the 
gallon of water and 1-2 cup of flour of sulpher to a 12 qt. 
pail of mash twice a month you will have little or none of these 
troubles, if you have kept everything clean and sanitary about 
the place. 



78 0000 LAYINd HENS ON I ACRE 

WHITE DIARRHOEA 

In little chicks wlnie I have a flock effected I usually give 
scalded milk with conside:'a))le black pepper, keeping all water 
away for two days, feeding only rice boiled in milk, and the 
boiled milk, and when I give them water I use three drops of car- 
bolic acid to the quart of water (don't guess at it) and only give 
a little at a time, as they might over drink and make them as bad 
as ever, otherwise this will counteract the trouble and seldom 
loose few, if any. 

LICE ON SMALL CHICKS 

I usually grease the top of the head and under the wing, and 
vent lightly with a solution of 1-2 each Coal Oil ,and Lard with 
a drop or two of carbolic acid. In three years I have had only 
one occasion to use this remedy, and that was caused from some 
Pigeons that my son had abont the place. So I believe if one is 
careful, and keep your dust baths in good shape, using the Lye 
water freely when house cleaning, and disinfecting with the fol- 
lowing disinfectant often, you will have little or no cause to 
use it, and always be free from the pests. 

MITES 

There is nothing better to rid the house of them than the 
Lye water solution of two tablespoonsful to the 12 qts. of 
water. See it is not only sprayed with a spray pump, but use 
a sprinkler pot ,or broom where you can and give the house a 
good drenching of the solution. In my System houses where the 
"Mite Proof Roosts" are used I have nev(M- seen a mite. 

LICE AND MITE KILLER AND DISINFECTANT 

This formula is as good, or better than any that is on the 
market, and is worth many dollars to those interested in poul- 
try. 

Crude Carl)olic Aei;!, 3 oz. 

Sweet Oil. 2 oz. 

Coal Oil, 4 oz 

Oil of Mustard, 1 Small Teaspoonful 

Spirits of Turpentine, 1 oz. 

In all severe cases, 1 place the sick birds in a separate hos- 
pital coop, and treat, and feed separately until cured. 

With my System of housing, if kept properly cleaned, there 
will be no reason why one should have lice and mites, thus doing 
away with dis<nises caused from that source. "Cleanliness is 
next to Godliness" is as true when applied to chicken business, 
as well as another, and it will pay you well to clean often, and 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 79 

be sure to keep the ground floor dust bath clean, and in good 
w. iking shape. 

LIMBER NECK 

Give each bird effected a teaspoouful of turpentine, three 
da\ s in succession following each dose with a little wheat bread 
soaked in water. This remedy is almost a positive cure. 

SCALY LEGS 

This can be readily cured by swabbing well with a solution 
of 1-2 each of Coal Oil and Lard, and to one pint of this solution 
add two tablespoonful of flour of Sulphur. By applyino- a few 
times every three or four days it will make an old scaly pair of 
legs look like new. 

BREAKING BROODY HENS 

Make a slat box coop of common lath 2 ft. high 4 ft. 
long and 4 ft. wide leaving the lath the width of the lath apart 
on top and bottom, and all sides using 1x2 in. strips 2 ft. long 
for the corner posts and the same kind of strips 4 ft. long 
for the top and bottom strips for the ends to nail the top and 
bottom laths to Place this coop upon bricks on end, one at each 
corner, or stakes so the air can circulate freely under it, and 
place your hens in this coop, in a shady place and give plenty of 
fresh Avater and feed as usual, and in two or three days your hens 
have forgotten their broodiness and often do not stop laying, and 
are ready to be returned to their house. If this is done late in 
the evening it will prevent their fighting with the rest of the 
hens in the house, as they will do if returned in the day time. 

PRESERVIN(^ EGOS IN WATERGLASS 

This is the best known method used today. (Sodium Sili- 
cate) is the technical name for this diug, and one had better 
call for it under this name. It usually sells for about $1.00 per 
gallon. Much care should be used in selecting eggs to be pres- 
erved. In warai weather the eggs must be real fresh. Put 
them in just as soon as laid. Have them perfectly clean and 
nice and they will keep until next winter, but you will certainly 
have to be sure they are clean and fresh. The jars in which 
they are placed should be clean and sweet. Stone jars are bet- 
ter than other vessels, but perfectly clean sweet-smelling kegs 
or barrels will do alright. Boil nine gallons of water and let 
stand until cool, and then add one gallon of waterglass. Keep 
the vessel in a cool, dark place, and do not disturb the eggs 
when once in. The eggs ca^i be placed in the solution from day 



80 



6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 



to uiiy. fis they are gathered. Wipe them off good, and put in 
no cracked or very thin-,shelle4 ones. If the eggs are inclined 
to float you must weight th(^ni down until they are well beneath 
the surface of the solution. When the eggs are to be used, 
remove them and wipe them off with a clean cloth. The cost of 
preserving eggs this way will be about two cents per dozen, 
depending on the cost of the waterglass, as the price varies in 
different places. 




CRANE'S SYSTEM 81 

Preparing Birds for the Show Room 



One wants to begin in Janiiaiv aiul see that the breeding 
pens are properh mated up to prediue such ehiekens as you- 
Avoiild like to exbibit. 

Set eggs in January and February to produce the cockerels' 
,y«on wish to exhibit, but March or April is better for pullets for 
late shows, as earlier pullets are liable to moult in December 
the same as a year old bird, and they will not be in show shape. 
As for old birds that you expect to exhibit in September shows, 
you will have to force moulting in Jnue, and just as soon as 
you are done l)reeding, separate the cocks from the hens, and 
keep separated until breeding season the next year. To make 
biids diop okl tail and wing feathers and grow new ones for 
early shows, take a sharp pen knife and holding the bird on 
its back, enter the point of the knife into the quill from the 
under side close to the skin of the bird and si)lit feather 
about an inch towaid the outer end of the feather. This will 
cause the feather to die, dry up, and fall out and a new one will 
grow in. This trick is known to but few of the professional show 
people. After forcing your old birds to moult, and they are ready 
to put on weiglit. confine your birds in close quarters and com- 
niene-^ feeding strong for about amonih before the show, keeping 
pens cleaned daily and well filled with straw, and do not let 
male birds, especially white ones, out in the sun after they get 
their new feathers. It is well to see that they have access to a 
good dust bath occassionally. Young Cockerels should be separa- 
ted from the females early, and if white will be better if kept 
out of the sun after they shed their chicken feathers. 

In using '"Crane's System" our birds scarcely need washing 
if the houses and dust bath have been properly cared for, as our 
white birds look as though they had just been washed all the 
time. To put on weight fast, keep them in small coops and stuff 
them with corn meal to which has been added charcoal and chop- 
ped onions and feed as much pork saucage as they will stand 
without causing too much looseness of the bowels, and add a 
few drops of tincture of iron to the drinking water, in a few days 
your birds will be in fine shape. To wash white birds, and 
some wash all birds thinking it improves them, ;nd f agj-ec with 
them if the birds are kept as some folks keep them; use three 
wash tubs in some roo'm where you can have heat to help in dry- 
ing. Fill the tubs half full of soft water, the two first ones want 
to be blood heat or a little better, and the third cool water. 
Wash the bird in the first, using castile soap, and sponge rub- 
bing the feathers the way they lay. Rinse well in the second tub^ 



82 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

rinsing cut all of the soap, using the sponge the same as in the 
first tul) : In the third tub put in blueing, the same as women do 
to blue their clothes, and rinse the chickens out in this, then 
.'squeeze out all the water you can and dry near a stove using a 
fan, and loosening out the feathers with the other hand until 
real dry. 

Clean legs and toenails with point of a rather dull pen knife 
:scraping all dirt out from under the scales on the legs, and rub 
with sweet oil and vaseline. 

In Barred Rocks, and some otliei- breeds, plucking out 
"black, and off colored feathers, except main wing and tail fea- 
thers is generally practiced, becaui-e your competitior will, and 
no one can tell the difference, and as one poultry Judge of 
over 40 years experience, told me that was only dressing them 
for the show. Be sure you commence early enough to feed for 
weight, if you find your birds are under-weigbt, as they cut two 
points for every pound they are under-weight. Many a good bird 
has lost out because they had not been properly cared for, and 
fed long enough before the show. By all means if you are breeding 
show birds; own an American Standard of Perfection Book, and 
you take it as your guide and use it with "Crane's System" and 
you will be on the right track. 




CRANE'S SYSTEM 83 

Story of the Discovery and History of the 
Success of "Crane's System 

As demonstrated by Crane's Automatic 
Poultry Plant, W. O. Crane, Mgr. 



In the fall of 1907, I was connected with, as an officer, of a 
new corporation entitled National Locating and Developing Co. 
of St. Louis, Mo. And when the money panic hit the country, that 
year like many other business concerns, quit business; my money 
was tied up and lost. The following year I came to Tulsa, Okla. 
Being a watch maker and jeweler took a position with one of 
the leading jeweleiy houses; had only been at work a short time 
when I was stricken down with typhoid fever for the third time 
in life ; but by persistent efforts of four doctors and two nurses I 
lived through. When I became rational nearly six months later, I 
fouBd I was paralii^ed, unable to walk without a cane for months ; 
and in debt to Four Doctors two Nurses, House rent, Board bill 
for my three children, Grocery bill. Drug bill and borrowed 
money, to the amount of over $1200. I could not help making the 
remaik to my Nurse, why did you not let me die, when I was so 
near gone ; no, it seems I was to live and discover this System, and 
tell it to the World by writing this Book. 

One day while laying in bed waiting for strength to come 
bad-., my fist Nurse, who became my housekeeper, and later my 
wife, brought to my bed an illustrated advertising card of the 
Bon Ami Mfg., Co., of several little baby chickens with the ex- 
pression "hasn't scratched yet" upon it, and as she gave it to me 
said 'aren't they cute'; and as I lay there looking at them, all m} 
former love for chickens came swelling up within me; then and 
there made up my mind to raise more chickens, and by chickens, I 
meant the best that could be raised. 

When I was well enough to walk some, I had my oldest son, 
then thirteen years of age, come to me from Indiana. He hav- 
ing a little money, also my housekeeper, put their money into a 
co-partnership, and I acting as Manager, bought of Chas A. Cyphel 
of Buffalo, N. Y. fifteen thorobred S. C. White Leghorn year- 
ling hens and one cockerel. As I had no money and the rest of 
the company had invested theirs in chickens, it was up to me to 
house them some way. We were living on a rented lot 70x105 
feet long and it had a four room house 24x24 and a kitchen 7xlj 
feet ; so we had lots of yard room but no fence. I was able to get 
itwo piano boxes and made them into a house as you will see illus- 



84 . 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

trated in Fig. No. 2. I backed the two boxes together after tak- 
ing off the backs, and cleating tliem together by means of cleats 
across the ends and underneath the tops and bottom, then I took 
2x4s cut about three and one-half feet long, cutting holes through 
lower outside corners of the floors of the Piano boxes, so they 
would extend through the floor about two and one-half feet for 
corner posts, to raise the boxes two and one-half feet from the 
ground, this gave me another room under the floor for a dust 
bath and further exercise on the ground; then I split the backs, I 
took off the boxes, to make the doors for the front and back of 
this low^er room, also to cover the east and west ends. Then I 
made swinging screen doors of one inch mesh chicken wire and liin 
ged with screw-hooks and eyes for the upper front opening ; also 
the inside front and back openings to ray lower room. I cut out a 
portion of the east end of the lower room and covered it wnth one 
inch mesh wire; also cut out a window full height of the two up 
per rooms and about two and one-half feet wide on the west end 
and covered it with a good grade of unbleached muslin, to give 
plenty of ventilation and yet prevent drafts. I covered the top 
and the back slope with the best 3 ply roofing. 1 cut down the 
front slope to within one foot of the floor and covered this with 
two outside doors covering them also with the same roofing; as 
one would be so heavy to handle and as it was I placed scantling 
across the top to place two inch piulkys in and hung these do.n-s 
so they were counterbalanced with -weights, making them easily 
adjusted to any position. 1 hinged all outside doors to place 
with good heavy strap hinges. I made a frame to fit in about 
two and one-half feet from the tcp of the horse for an uppei 
floor and covered this frame with plain galvanized iron; this 
flc'or was made to slide in on guide stiips nailed en each end in- 
side running from bottom of frout slope to the back, where I 
wanted the floor to rest when in place ; Then by means of long- 
heavy wire hooks, 1. maele from heavy wire and screw eyes. I 
hooked the floor up in front to the roof, having the hcoks just 
long enough so that my floor was level when hooked in place. 
Then above this floor 1 fixed my roost which I made of strips 
suspended from the roof coming down within six inches of the 
floor. This floor you will notice can be let elow^n and drawn out 
over a wheelbarrow for cleaning, and being of galvanized iron 
does not soak up moisture from the droppings; thus making it 
easy to clean and keep in a sanitary condition. In the east e-nd 
of the upper floor I had an opening for a stairway about ten in- 
ches v\ide and long enough to allow the chickens to come up 
from second floor, this being a board eight inches wide with 
strips of 1 inch by 1 inch nailed to it about six inches apart, 
and the board long enough to rest the low^er end on the fence 
around the lower staiway, with its upper end hooked to the up- 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 85 

per floor by means of serew-hooks and e.yes acting as hinges; 
also put a stairway througli the lower floor under the upper 
one the same way, and put a fence around this, except about six 
inches at the back end, so I could cover tliis floor about six in- 
ches deep of hay, or any good litter, and tliey could not scratch 
it all down stairs, as I wanted to feed all the grain in this lit- 
ter and make them work for it. 

I nailed cleats one foot long on the inside of both ends, one 
foot above the floor of the piano boxes to support a board eight 
inches wide to extend the length of the house on the back side 
to set the nests on, this gave a foot under the nests so the hens 
had all the flcor to work on undisturbed. The nests were then 
placed on this board, so I could take them out to clean. 
I v.se an apple box converted into a nest as yOu will see illustra- 
ted in Fig 11 and placing about three on this nest board, only I 
had to cut out an opening in the back of the box about six in- 
ches square to admit of ga-thering eg^s from the back of the 
house and caring for the hens etc. 1 then made a door on the 
north side of the house one foot wide opposite my nests to gath- 
er eggs from and look after the layers; this comes just below 
the back sl()]ie and was hinged to it. I cut a three cornered 
opening just under the front slop.;' on the east corner about four 
inches en a side and made a V f-haped feeding tiough four and 
one-kalf feet long fitted to slide into this opening made out of 
half inch lumber: I found this very convenient to feed all soft 
feed in ; and all of the grain was fed in the litter on the sec- 
ond floor. 

The most of this house was built evenings in January by 
moon liglit; my son would use a mirror to reflect the ray.s of the 
moon on to that particular place on the house I was working, so 
I could see to drive nails, or a line to saw to ; as we were so 
poor we had no lantern, and I have always been a poor hand to 
borrow, many times going without a thing in preference. Feb- 
ruary first the house was ready and the third we had a very 
hard wind storm, and as I was working at the stoie, I received 
a phone message that my chicken house was blown over and rol- 
led over several times ; well 1 felt thankful that the chickens 
had not yet arrived and the houses was empty. That evening I 
found that the house was not much the worse for the tumble; so 
we righted it up and returned it to its place and made ready for 
the chickens which arrived the seventh of February 1909. At 
this time we anchored the house to the ground by sinking pbsts 
at the back corners and one in the center in front and bolted 
the house to these. The chickens came, all but one looking fine, 
from Buffalo. In a few days the one that was so poorly upon ar- 
rival died, and shortly one got Imit and had to be killed, and 
one layed herself to death within a few weeks so it left us twelve 



86 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

hens that we base our record from for the first year. They com- 
menced laying within four days after arrival and continued sa 
strong, not only surprised us, but all who saw and admired them 
by the eggs they were laying, and housed in such close quarters. 

My intention at first was to buy a roll of chicken wire fen- 
cing two inch mesh, and give them all the back yard for run; 
but it took moaiey to buy wire and I having none it was post- 
pioned, even thoi^gh all my neighbois kei^t saying they will all 
die housed up in such close quarters, as the house only measur- 
ed 5x6 feet square equalinp- 90sq. ft. to the three floois which 
gives seven sq. feet to the bird As time went on the eggs just 
shelled out, and the birds always seemed in the pink of condition 
We took good care of tlie hens and kept their quarteis clean. 
All the time keeping a strict account of all eggs sold and used, 
and all feed and expenses, and month came and month went, and 
hot weather came and the the mometer would register at times 
108 degrees in the shade, our hen's were comfortable and wallow 
ing in the diit on the ground floor with both fioiit and back 
doors open and the east being open they got all the fresh cool 
air there was and no snn; their egg recoid was nearly as good in 
August as any of the previous months. October first, seven and 
one-half months after starting I footed up for the first time 
to see what their record was, yet knowing they mu.*t have made 
a ^ood record Ivvas surprised when I found that they had actu 
ally laid 1568 eggs; thus making an average of loO eggs each 
for the twelve hens in seven and half moaiths, or 225 days; this 
leaving 141 days in the year, giving a g'ood chance to average 
over 200 eggs to the hen in the year. I was so surprised 
that I remarked at once that I had discovered something; 
for if one can continue to keep that number of hens on so small 
a space and make them produce over 200 eggs to the hen each 
year, w^hat can one do if he was to install an acre that way. So 
that fall I built two house-! 5x6 ft. on the some three floor 
idea only as I did not own the lot I drew plans, and made them 
portable, so they could be readily taken down and moved handi- 
ly. I put the pullets we had raised that summer in them, and 
they commenced to lay in September at about five months old 
and they continued to lay for a full year without stopping for 
moulting; we mated up fifteen pullets to one cockerel to a 
house of this size in White Leghorns, and these pullets fully equ 
aled the records of the old pen or l)etter, and at the end of 
the first year Fel). 1st, 1910. I invoiced our Plant and the Pho- 
tograph was taken, and I present it here as Fig. No. 3; We found 
we had cleared a little over $300. the first year on our twelve 
hens. 

During this year we hatched nearly all the eggs that was not 
sold for hatching at fancy prices, ard in the fall we sold all the 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 78 

young stock that we did not wish to keep, and bought into 
two other varieties; so the second year we had three breeds, 
three pens of S. C. WEite Leghorns, four pens of 8. C. R. I. 
Reds, and two pens of White Wyandottes. 

During the first year I invented and put into use my chick col- 
ony raising coop as shown in Pig's. 17, 18. 19, to raise our 
chicks in; these coops you will see are made entirely without 
glass and are also made portable, so one can take one down or set 
it up in three minutes; the roof or cover is counterbalanced 
with a weight so it is easy to adjust to any position, and the 
coop is bolted securely to a post to prevent winds from racking 
or blowing them over. The same year I invented my celebrated 
fireless Brooder, being made from a cominon galvanized wash 
tub as shown in Fig 23, and my handy milk bottle fountain for 
baby chicks, or grown fowls as shown in Fig. 16, (lettered A, 
;B, C, D, E, F, G, indicates the separate parts) all these were 
gotten out the first year of my experimenting. When we com- 
menced on our second year we had all these things to aid us in 
our woi^k. All the advertising we did the first year was very life 
tie only a small Ad. in our local city paper which always con- 
tained these words "come and see us, Visitors welcome", and the 
people came, as we were handling chickens different from any on< 
else and many came out of curiosity, and many days brought 
over one hundred and fifty visitors to our Plant. The old ad- 
age "seeing is believing" came true in this case, as most of 
them became interested, as they thought it wonderful that chick- 
ens could be kept in such close quarters, and would go away to 
bring others back with them; in this way our Plant became a 
continuous show grounds, and our visitors went home and ad- 
vertised for us, by talking about us and that brought more visi- 
tors; hence more customers; so our orders the second year came 
faster than we could fill with all of our nine breeding pens of 
three varieties. We had not advanced far in the second year 
when we found we had many calls for eggs of varieties we did 
not have and we could not get these would-be customeis money; 
we began at once to buy the stock in several other varieties, 
with our egg money. Each time I bought I got the best I 
could buy, or from the best known strains of each variety; un- 
til by December of the second year w^e had ten of the most 
popular varieties known to the Standard, and was in position to 
fill orders from any of these > arieties. Of course we liatch^ed all 
eggs from th^ nirre pens, we did not sell for hatching to others 
at fancy prices, that yiear. 

In the fall we had about Five hundred young chickeiLs that 
we had raised, and the most of the puliets was kept as breeders 
for the third year, yet we sold enough cockerels and pullets to 
equal the price we paid out for the pens that we bought that 



88 (5000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

season of the new varieties added. At the end of the second 
year we had over four hundred birds as breeders made up of 
ten varieties, and was from the best strains in each variety that 
our country boasts of to day ; many of these birds had a sliow 
record that was state wide as prize winners. We exhibited at 
the Eastern Oklahoma Poultry Association Poultry Show at 
Tulsa, Okia., Januaiy 10, 1911, just before the close of our sec- 
ond years work, One Hundred and Thirty-five birds ; covering 
two pens each of the ten varieties, and some three, that we were 
breeding. At this show we won all the prize loving cups offered; 
namely, one for the largest and best display. Second for the best 
display of one variety, based on show points and Third for the 
best pen in the show, making three $25.00 cups. We also won 
three Best Pen Specials Ten Dollars each, offered by the County 
and Five Dollar Specials on the best Cockerel, and best Hen in 
the show, also enough Specials, and regular First, second and 
Third Prizes, to make over Seventy-five Prizes in all ; this of 
course give us great prestige for the next seasons work. At 
the end of the second year, February 1, 1911, we had another 
Photograph taken of our Plant to show our lapid progress, as 
will be seen in Fig. -i, when about this time the associate editor 
of the Union Poultiy Jourual was here and estimated the Plant 
worth at least $3500.00, and it was my l)est opinion tliat he 
gave it a correct valuation. 

You will notice that by this cut the old Piano Box coop that 
I started with ; near the center of the large coops. You will al**o 
notice that I have made my third edition in a Laying house and 
have embodied in this hotise all the essentials to bring it up to 
the height of perfection, and still maintain the principals of the 
old Piano co*op. This new house was gotten up and was building 
the first two, when my oldest son took sick with typhoid fever 
and died in a weeks time, June 9th. of the second year 1910, and 
by December 25th. of the same year we had fifteen of thse new 
6x6 ft. Houses and two 5x6 ft. one being the Piano Box house 
and the other my second edition. In this my last edition 6x6 ft. 
House we mated, in Leghorns 20 females to one Male, and plac- 
ing them in our yard four feet apart in the row running East 
and West, and nine feet between the rows, so to allow the sun to 
enter the house even to the low^er room when the sun runs low- 
est in the short days of winter, figures out on a square of 21 Ox 
210 ft. each way; One Acre, 294 houses; 21 head of Leghorns to 
the house, as we have always mated with success for over two 
years, means that one could house 6174 matured birds on One 
Acre. Hence the title of my System "6000 Laying hens on One 
Acre". With the above size matings in our houses we have 
found that our hens have always been in the pink of condition 
giving us as large or larger egg yield than when five or six 



CRAinE'S system 89 

are kept in a house of three l)y six feet; and does not tal-e as 
much time to care for them, as it does of the house of only pos- 
sibly six head; and on the ground that it takes to place cne of 
the large houses one could not place over two of the small three 
by six houses including space between the houses to give 
the necessary sunlight and air at all times of the year; there- 
fore one ca,n readily see how I put about twice as many li ds on 
a given space of ground and care for them with less than one half 
the labor, that one could any system using a coop of 
three by six size in wliieh one can house half as many on the 
same space of ground. While with these large matin gs in L?g- 
horns, and the egg >i(ld so great the fertility has given us 
surprisingly large pereentages, many times going 100 p^ercent 
on te!-ling eggs at a time in incubator hatches; but in larger 
breeds one does not want to house more than is wise to mate 
with one male; such as Orpingtons I would not mate more than 10 
to 12 to the house, and Plymouth Rocks about the same ; while R. 
I. Reds, and Wyandottes we have always mated fifteen females to 
one male. The house is in all cases large enough to hold all 
that is wise for one to mate with one male in any variety, for 
the best results. 

During the first year and ip to Xmas. of the iseco-nd, I 
worked at the store from ten to twelve hours a day, and all the 
attenticn I could give the Plant was before daylight ,and after 
dark,, except on Sundays, as I carried my lunch most of the 
time at noon, and the Plant was otherwise caicd for by my two 
boys that attended school, they were twelve and fourteen, and 
my housekeeper, until June of the second year, when the death of 
my oldest son oecured, leaving the youngest son, my hou'sekeep- 
er and myself to care for the Plant till Xmas when I quit my posi- 
tion at the store to give the fast growing Poultry Plant my 
full and undivided attention. Believing in the necessity of 
green food for confined birds, (During the first years work), 
I experimented persistently trying to sprout oats successfully 
and not have them become sour and sp'oil, or consume to mich 
time careing lor them to keep enough on hand to feed large num- 
bers of fowls, as 1 wa^ convinced that it was the best fotod that 
one could feed to eithei- la.ying hens or growing chicks whether 
confined closely or on r-ange. 1 bought other mens ideas that 
Avas for- sale, but always something was wrong, either they would 
overheat, and would not gi-ow even, or the process was to ted- 
ious and take to much time to keep them on hand; so I kept 
studying and experimenting until I had it figured out to my 
satisfaction, and the second winter we spr^outed oats all the time, 
enough to feed our entire stock <)f over Four Hundred head, all 
they would eat, arrd did not take over fifteen minutes time for 
one of us to attend jto theui rright and morning, and they at 



90 6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 

all times were in the best passible condition to feed. This Sprou- 
ter is illustrated as Fig's. 12, 13, 14 and is described under 
head of "Oat Sprouting "., by this means I was able to turn one 
bushel of dry oats into six to eight bushels of sprouted oats, 
the best feed possible to feed either grown fowls, or little chicks; 
so you cam see how I was able to keep our fowls so cheap 
thus giving us added profits which seems at first sight almost 
impossible. 

Starting out the third year with four hundred layers of ten 
varieties I devoted my whole time, and employed a man six 
weeks during the busiest time of hatching, as 1 nui eight large 
240 egg incubators, hatching over 10,000 eggs, between January 
15th. and June 15th. our hens furnished all the ec^s and as many 
more that was i>:old to other people to hatch at fancy prices. We 
sold most of the chicks we hatched as day-old-chicks, shipping 
mar- -^f them to distant points, and never had one reported died 
in transit or arrived in bad condition; but before the close of 
the season we 'had to reject -several large orders, some 1000 
chicks each, as we had no incubator cellar, and we did not dare 
run too late as it gets very hot here in June to regulate an in- 
cubator in an upper room. We kept and raised about seven hun- 
dred for our own Plant. During this season our Plant was net- 
ting us about $300.00 per mcinth. 

Seeing that our plant had assumed such proportions in so 
short time, and we did not own the house and lot we were using 
and paying quite a stiff rent; I commenced to tliink of 
locating its future home wliere we could have things permanent, 
such as a good incubator cellar and brooder house ; also a feed 
house or granery, so I could buy feed when cheapest to last a year 
if need be ; also room to set out an acre of our system houses 
if we wanted to go into it that strong. 1 have looked about for 
such a place to suit my fancy and have found what I think in 
the near future will be the permanent home of the Crane's Au- 
tomatic Poultry Plant, namely ; Provident City, Texas. Not that 
this location is not good, as 1 have proved that it is good, and 
I doubt if it can l)e beat; but we have fifteen acres down there 
that we exj^ect to set out to Figs and Oranges, and can install 
our Chicken Plant on as large a scale as we want. We are in as 
fine a climate there as the U. S. offers, and we have Houstoin, 
Galvestcn and San Antonio equally near at hand, with a rain- 
fall enough so one can raise almost everything. So with this 
in view we have been reducing our Plant, getting ready for 
the change and sometime within the year I expect will find us 
permanently located on our future farm with a warranty deed 
bought with money made from the Poultry Plant free and clear. 
As I was able to work at my trade at the store for two years 
after my sickness I was a})le to pay up most of my sick indelit- 



CRANE'S SYSTEM 91 

ness that way leaving me about free to care for the chickens ex- 
clusively. While I am here reducing the Plant getting ready 
to move I am trying my best to fulfill many promises by getting 
out this my first issue of my System Book with cuts, drawings 
and specifications of all my houses, and equipment that we have 
used to attain to such a success in so short a time with but a few 
chickens to stait with, and practically no money. A poor mans 
System. Start small. Gather knowledge as you proceed, Add to 
the size of your plant as your success, and trade warrants. If you 
will apply the old adage to your business "cleanliness is next to 
Godliness'', and look after the little things, and are not afraid 
to do the regular chores Sundays, and in all kinds of weather, 
and will apply a little good common sense, and judgment, with a 
good deal of study, and thinking you are bound to succeed. I 
have proven this beyond any question of doubt the last three 
years. There is good money in the poultry business if you will 
heed the above, and follow out ray system in full as I shall en- 
deavor to explain in this Book. 

Figures showing over $400.00 was cleared in less than one 
year from one Pen of six hens and one cock of White Orpingtons- 
in our Plant useing my System. Dec. 1910 I purchased a pen of 
White Orpingtons of high quality there being six yearling hens 
and one cock. I entered them at our local E. 0. P. A. Poultry 
Show in January 1911, winning. 

Special Connty Prize, $ lO.GQ- 

Regular 1st. Pen Prize, 3.00 

Regular 1st. Cock Prize, 2.00 

Regular 1st. Hen Prize, 2.00' 

Regular 2nd. Hen Prize, 1.00 

From Jan. 1st. to Aug. 1st they laid 878 eggs. 
Sold five settings at $10.00 for each fifteeen eggs, 50.00 

Sold eight settings at $5.00 after May 15th. 40.00 

About 400 eggs was set, hatching about 244 chicks. 
190 Day-old-chicks were sold at $1.00 each, 190.00 

One pen of five head 4 mo. old sold for, 12.00 

One pen of five head 4 mo. old sold for, 10.00 

One pen of five head 6 mo. old sold for, 50.00 

Ten cockerels was sold for, 35.00 

25 Dozen eggs was sold for, 35 cents per dozen 8.75 



Total $413.75 

[n August 1911 I sold the old pen for all they cost me, and I 
now have left the best cockerel I raised from that pen, and is 
easily worth $25.00. I also reserved some eggs from the old pen, 
that I set this spring, and have as fine a pen of four pullets 
and two cockerels as 1 ever raised, that I would not take less 
than $50.00 for. 



92 



6000 LAYING HENS ON 1 ACRE 



Of course the above figures are the largest we ever made 
with one pen, but one can imagine how we have done so well, 
when we had seventeen of these large breeding pens, and repre 
senting ten of the leading, and most popular breeds in 1911, to 
sell eggs for hatching, and day- old-chicks from, and had to turn 
down several large orders for Day-old-chicks, some for 1000 
chicks each. 




HUGHES' CRUSHED 

Lime-0-Grit 



FOR 



Chickens, Turkeys, 
Geese and Ducks 



Specially prepared for this purpose and far 
superior to any GRIT on the market for 

HEALTH, BONE and EGG-PRODUC- 
TION -:- -:- -:- -: -:- 

It Makes the Chicken Lay 

HUGHES' Crushed LIME-O.GRIT 

contains 80 per cent cai bonate of lime, 10 
per cent sihca and 3 per cent iron and mag- 
nesium -;- -:- -:- -;- -:- 

Leave it to the Chicken 

Miinufiictured (inly h\ 

The Hughes Stone Go. 

TULSA, OKLAHOMA 



i/he tJl/iistrations in 

this tjjook. IV ere 

made iyu 



J/ie 

>yicnie KDngrautng 

L^ompanu 



^Luskogee =:= Oklahoma 



Pure Water -Healthy Chickens 



The cause of most of your poultry troubles can usually be traced to yourfailure to properly protect 
their drinking water from contamination from the cliickens themselves. It is a very easy matUr ^^ 
to end this class of trouble liy supplying ; you r chickens withpure water and keeping it pure with a ^ 

Moe's Top-Fill 
Poultry Drinking Fountain 

It always supplies just enough pure water— won't slop over— dead air space 
^eeps -water cool in summer, warm in winter. Simple in construction— remove 
coverandfillfrom top— water ceases to flow when cover is removed— no valves 
to Bet out of order. One, two and three gallon capacity. Satisfaction guaranteed. ^ 
Xf not at dealers, sent direct on receipt of price, 1 gal., $1.25; 2 gal., $1.75; 4 gal., J;!.^.^ 

■ OTIS & MOE. New Otis Building, Chicago. 111. 




Binding-Stevens Seed Co. 

TULSA AND MUSKOGEE, OKLA. 

We have a most complete line of Poultry Supplies, Incubators and 
Brooders, Drinkintr Founts, Feed Boxes, Etc., in Oklahoma and at 
reasonable prices. Ask for our Descriptive Catalogue of Seeds and 
Poultry Supplies. Correspondence solicited. 

USE PERFECTION POULTRY FOODS FOR BEST RESULTS 




The 
Norwich 

Automatic 
Exerciser 

and Feeder 




An inji'enious machine 
with which Poultry Auto- 
matically Feed themsel- 
ves. Operates with any 
grain or mixture, and feeds much or little as desired. Saves 
25 per cent of feeding expenses, reduces labor more than half, 
increases eyg production and keeps the flock in perfect con- 
dion. Guaranteed Rat. Bird and Waste Proof, will last a Ufe 
time, never out of order, and unless found absolutely satisfac- 
tory, may be returned and money refunded. Special Feed- 
er for the Crane's System. 



ni .o.wic-.co„..u.s.A. : THE NORWICH AUTOMATIC FEEDER CO 



Crane's Automatic Poultry Plant 

Breeders of the Famous Prize-Winning Srains of , 

S. C. Blacky White and Buff Orpingtons, Ring- 
let Barred Plymouth Rocks and Crystal 
White Indian Runner Ducks 



EGGS FOR HATCHING and STOCK FOR SALE IN SEASON 

Send for Mating List FREE 

W. O. CRANE, Manager 

AUTHOR AND PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK 

6000 LAYING HENS ON ONE ACRE, CRANE'S SYSTEM. Price $1.00 Post Paid 

Life Member A. p. A. Phone, ReJ. 1297 Box 865 Tulsa. Okla. 




I Positively guar- 
antee to save you 
from 75c to $1.25 
every hatch. 

And I'll save you 95 per cent 
of the work that the old stale 
machines require. I'll save 
you al! that work of remov- 
ing the lamp and fliliiif; it 
tverv day — just one tilling 
maUesahatcli with my X Ray. 
ho I can safely guarantee to 
Baveyou three fourths the oil 
you would use in an old style 
machine— and oil is an expen- 
Five thing to waste. I'll save 
you all the uncertainties of 
the old sti/le machines by my 
automatic regriUatiou of heat. 
I'll save you all the responsi- 
bility of lookinft- after ventil- 
ator shutters and air valves. 
The X-Ray does these things 
antomatcally. ^ 

I'll guaranteeyou big- 
ger hatches because 

\ absolutely 7f)ioK' with my 
X-I!ay Incubator you can get 
bigger and betier batches 
every time. 1 have made it 
passible tor thousands of peo- 
ple to get bigger, better, more 
profitable hatches— and I can 
do tlie same thing for lOU. 
If you want me to please write 
for mv new FRKE 191-! Booli on 
X-KAY INCUBATORS AND 
BROODERS. 



rU Save You Money Every 
Hatch — My Incubator Uses 
Only 1 Gallon of Oil — Lamp 
Has To Be Filled Just Once! 



BECAUSE my incubator is radically differeitt from all old ■ 
style machines. I put the lamp of the X-Ray Incubator 
underneath, -w'here it should be— and not on the side'. 1 his 
means a perfect distribution of heat — perfectly ervn 
temperature over the egg chamber at all times-perfect ventil- 
ation-no heat 'waste whatever and no cold side. 1 make my 
oil tank much larger than those used on the old style machines. 
My tank holds 7 to 8 quarts of oil-but just 4 quarts is all that s 
needed for a hatch -and this tank has to be HUed just once/ Not 
every day as with the old style lamp-on-the-side inachines. bo 
here's where the big saving coynes! Just think- for the entire 
hatch just one gallon of oil is needed where the old style mases 
reouire from 3 to 5 gallons. And tnere's no daily mussing around 
^^it!l he oil tank-j,is*t till it up at the ,s'<u-?-and that's alll My patented 
automatic trip-another exclusive X-Ray feature-also makes a big say- 
ing of oil. It cuts down the flame at the burner when egg-chamber gets 
too hot, so there's absolutely no wa-te, no excess heat to escape-evj-ry 
bit Is used to best advantage. Exc.-.s heat makes smoke and smell-but 
there's Ho'ie in the X-Ray. There rant lea.iy! I can save you money 
because my patented heat regulating device ou my 




INCUBATOR 

"Built Different From Others" 

Is unquestionably the most perfect one ever used— it Is automatic. &nd 

positive. No respon-ihiiityon//f>»rpartat a'.l.iio worrying or iretting. 

Every part of my X-Kay Incubator is dHrereiita.nd far better than the old 

s<i/ie machines. The top of my X-Ray machine 

has two double-glass panels— so that tlier. 

mometer can be seen at any time without 

raising lid. To ventilate or turn eggs simply 

raisethislid— that's flue, isn't iti Eggs are 

never taken out of the X-Ray— doit't have 

to be! 

My X-Ray is the o???!/07ie built on the right 
priuciple. Itiueansless egg-handling, less oil. 
less heat generated, absolutely «o waste, no 
lining of lamp during hatch, absolutely no 
f limes, no danger nf ••cooking" eggs— because 
there's a steady, even lieat alu-aiis. So please 
rjinember that instead o( wAsting heat the 
X-Ray coHfro/.s it. And that the X Kay uses 
oily oiiegallonof oil— others m"sf have 3 to 
6.;ulloiis— an(itheirlanipjH"S< be filled ^ 

21 to 80 times, that is, every day 



during hatch. Prove to yourself that the X-Ray are 

the Only Improved Incubators 
and Brooders. Get FREE BOOK! 

If you're going to buy an Incubator or brooder, or both, why notget 
the oiu-s tliat are »i//et>- ahead of all the rest— all tho=e olcl-fashinu- 
ed laiuii-on-the-side machines that are so dirty and unsanitary? 
\Vliy not get the oiiethat's built on the right prin- 
ciiil'e— theone that thousands of tests have 
jirored to be the best and most profitable one! 
loiioughtto get aii the facts about these 
woudertul mai-liines of mine. You ought 
to get my Eig Free £oo,V . on X-Kay 

liKMbators and Brooders ctnd learn about 
(r/Mhe better features of these machines. 
Flease write for it today— i-/<//)t now while 
y(Ui are thinking about it. Ill send you tlie 
hook, by return mail. Address me person- 
ally. Yours truly , J. H. KATE, President, 



-^■^"-^-^^"^^M^^^^ 



X-Ray Incubator Co. 

Wayne, Nebraska 



Prompt Shipment 

Freight Paid 



NOV 25 1912 



NEWS ITEM. — Slalistics compiled hy the Department of Agricutture. show that at least forty- 
five million dollars. [45,000.000^ worth of eggs, or at least fifteen per cent of the egg crop is 
destroyed every year through careless handling and old fashioned methods. 

Stop Your Egg Waste 



STRONG HANDLE 
PATEWT LOCKING DEVICE 
DOVE-TAILED 




Figure up your own loss annually 
in brcKen ag'gs and time spent in 
gathering, handling, preparing for 
marKet and pachin^. 

Now rejoice -you can bid good- 
bye to this unnecessary leaK and 



CORNERS 
WIRE SLIDE 

OLID WOOD 
SIDE 
WOOD CARRIER 
TOP 

AIR CUSHION BEGIN MAKING REAL MONEY 



EGG COMPARTMENTS 



CARRIER 



12 Doz, Egg Size 



Patent Applied For 



Farmers' Modern Egg 
Crate 

This is ii perfectly s;ife ciirrier for fresh 
eg-gs. Only one handlint;- from nest to custo- 
mer. It will save nine-tenths of .vour time in 
handling egf>s. It provides a special way of 
winning new customers. One enthusiastic cus- 
tomer says it pays for itself in less than seven 
trips. 



It protects your valuable hatchings in every way dur- 
int? s^iipment. from both breakage and vibration. It 
will improve the hatchinji- percentage of your settings 
and please your customers. Send in a post card to us 
for information and wait for the evidence. 

SAFE-EG-PAl/^ 
fop HaLtchin|s .Im. 




Patent Applied for 15 egg size 



IF YOU REQUIRE SPECIAL EGG DEVICES TO FIT YOUR INDIVIDUAL 

CONDITIONS GIVE US AN OPPOR- 
TUNITY TO QUOTE YOU. 




Star Egg Carrier & 
Tray Mfg Co. 



109 
Dallas St. 



ROCHESTEK 



NEW YORK 





PURE BRED CHICKENS 

FREE 

TO HELP YOU START 

in the poultry business, we^offer you a proposition that will make it very easy. By special 
arrangement with our advertisers, we can give a single bird. pair, trio or pen for little 
work in the interest of the "OK" POULTRY JOURNAL. Secure eight or more subscrip- 
tions and the bird or birds will be sent you free. It will be an easy matter to make up 
even the largest club, which will entitle you to a pen of pure bred birds. No one interest- 
ed in poultry will refuse to subscribe for the "OK;" as they will be getting a journal brim 
full of mealy reading matter of special interest and matter which they cannot get in many 
journals. One reader made up the large club of 30 subscribers in three days, so can you. 

THE "OK" CO-OPERATIVE PLAN. 
A Single Bird, your choice of variety, for 8 Subscriptions 
A Pair of Birds, your choice of variety, for 15 Subscriptions 
A Trio cf Birds, your choice of variety for 20 Subscriptions 
A Pen of Birds, your choice of variety, for 30 Subscriptions 
[ All taKen at 50 cents a year. ] 

You do not need to wail litl you have the full number, send in the names as you get them and will give 
you credit, and when you have the desired number let us know what variety you prefer and wc will get the bird 
or birds to you as early as possible. Send for samples and begin ' NOW." 



Mounds, 





We are especially equipped 
to do printing for Poultry - 
men. Let us figure on your 
work. 

ADVERTISING RATES ON REQUEST 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



002 866 81 



07 t 



